Kukla's Kouzina Greek Cooking and Food Blog

Flour Kouzina

10/29/2018

One Size Does Not Fit All

Flour, or as we say alevri (αλεύρι, ah-LEH-vree), goes beyond the all-purpose category in the Greek/Karpathian kouzina. The flours we use include many varieties and textures that create everything from breads to rusks to cookies to custards. The protein content in flour can range from 5 to 15 percent, resulting in two basic types of flour, soft and hard. Soft flour has less protein, making it ideal for pastries, cookies, and cakes, while hard flour is higher in protein and gluten, which produces an elastic dough, making it perfect for yeast breads. Organic/unbleached is recommended for all flours whenever possible. We prefer Greek flours for their smooth texture (yielding supple instead of tight results), and exceptional taste. Once the package is opened, all flours will remain fresh for about one month, particularly in warm climates (always check the date on the package to make sure it’s fresh). After one month it would be best to store flour in the freezer in a heavy-duty resealable plastic bag. To keep flour fresh when at room temperature, store in a cool, dry place in an airtight container with a couple of bay leaves—this works beautifully to keep flour bug-free.

If you’ve ever been in a Greek market’s baking section and were not familiar with the labels and numbering system on the packages, you probably just kept going. Greek and European flours are similarly labeled and are worth getting to know. Following are the basic types of flours we use and how we use them:

ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR: ALEVRI GIA OLES TIS HRISIS (αλεύρι για όλες τις χρήσεις,
ah-LEH-vree yah OH-lehs tees HREE-sees)
This “flour-for-all-uses” is a blend of soft and hard wheat with an average protein content of about 9 to 11 percent. It can be used for making everything from bread to pastry to cookies (like koulourakia, kourambiedes, and melomakarona/finikia).

MELOMAKARONA/FINIKIA

HARD FLOUR #1: ALEVRI SKLIRO #1 (αλεύρι σκληρό, ah-LEH-vree sklee-ROH)
BREAD FLOUR: ALEVRI ZYMOTO (αλεύρι ζυμωτό, ah-LEH-vree zee-moh-TOH)
Hard flour and bread flour are made from hard wheat varieties that have a protein/gluten content of 12 to 14 percent, which translates into rich texture and high rise. These flours are best for making yeast breads, rusks, and sturdy dough/crust for a pita. Depending on the recipe, these flours can be used alone or can be combined with all-purpose, whole-wheat, and/or barley flours.

TYROPITA

SOFT FLOUR #2: ALEVRI MALAKO #2 (αλεύρι μαλακό, ah-LEH-vree mah-lah-KOH)
Soft flour is made from finely milled soft wheat that is low in protein and high in starch with a protein content of about 6 to 9 percent. When recipes require a flakey, delicate texture, like tender diples or Karpathian baklava, soft flour is preferred over all-purpose. Substitutes include cake (6 to 8 percent protein) and pastry flour (8 to 9 percent protein), depending on what you’re making.

KARPATHIAN BAKLAVA

WHOLE-WHEAT FLOUR: ALEVRI OLIKIS (αλεύρι ολικής, ah-LEH-vree oh-lee-KEES)
Whole-wheat flour is milled from the entire kernel of hard wheat and has a protein content of about 14 percent. This flour is used in breads like kouloures, and is usually added to all-purpose flour and/or barley flour for added texture and prominent wheat flavor.

KARPATHIAN KOULOURES

BARLEY FLOUR: KRITHARALEVRO (κριθαράλευρο, kree-thah-RAH-leh-vroh)
Barley flour is milled from pearl or whole-grain barley and has a protein/gluten content of about 5 to 8 percent. This sweet, nutty-tasting flour is darker than all-purpose, is lower in fat, and has a similar texture to whole-wheat flour. It’s usually combined with whole-wheat and/or all-purpose flour to make hearty breads and rusks/biscuits (paximadia).

PAXIMADIA

SEMOLINA: SIMIGDALI (σιμιγδάλι, see-mee-gthAH-lee), fine and course textures
Semolina is the ground endosperm of durum, a hard wheat, with a protein/gluten content of about 13 percent. Fine semolina (σιμιγδάλι ψιλό, see-mee-gthAH-lee psee-LOH) is used for sweet pites like galaktomboureko. Course semolina (σιμιγδάλι χονδρό, see-mee-gthAH-lee hohn-thROH) is used for desserts like halva.

HALVA

FARINA: FARINA (φαρίνα, fah-REE-nah)
Farina is the milled endosperm of hard wheat varieties (not including durum) that has a fine granular appearance with a protein content of about 10 percent. Because of its self-rising, fluffy texture when cooked, it is used to prepare the most flavorful sweet and savory indulgences such as breads, pies, tarts, and syruped sponge cakes, like revani.

REVANI

We have had the wonderful privilege of learning from two gifted teachers, our mom (Kukla) and Aunt Francis (her sister), when it came to all things cooking and baking (and life!)—the added bonus was having our yiayia’s recipes and lessons passed on to us. Sometimes we take it for granted that our knowledge of simple elements (like flour) in the Greek kouzina is common when sometimes it’s not. We hope that this installment of Greek ingredients has helped demystify what all of these different flours are used for and how you can experiment in your own kouzina to get the results you want.

We encourage you to cook and bake with your family and friends, and enjoy the process. Engage your kids to help and learn. The memories, lessons, and laughter that result from your time together will last a lifetime, for them and for you. These are the moments that will forever be cherished…they are for us!

Got Greek Flour?

The following in-store and online options will have you saying “YES”!

If you’re in the New York City area you can find these Greek flours (and more) at the following markets (they do phone orders and ship as well):

Titan Foods
25-56 31st Street
LIC, N.Y, 11102
718-626-7771

Mediterranean Foods (2 locations)
30-12 34th Street
Astoria, NY 11103
718-728-6166

22-78 35th Street
Astoria, NY 11105
718-721-0266

If you don’t live near these markets but have a Greek Orthodox Church nearby, chances are they know of a Greek/Mediterranean shop in the area.

Online shopping is the next best thing but you won’t find the selection that’s available in-store. Here’s where you can purchase Greek flour, as well as other foods and items:

Titan Foods
Recipiada

King Arthur Flour has a comparable organic line as well as European-style varieties.

I hope you enjoyed Flour Kouzina. The recipes for the foods pictured here will be featured in our upcoming cookbook. Stay tuned for more uniquely Greek and Karpathian ingredients that you can add to your kouzina pantry.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly

Copyright © 2018 Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!

Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos

10 Comments

Greek Dolmades~ Stuff, Wrap & Roll

10/15/2018

14 Comments

Dolma 101: Grape Leaves Versus Cabbage

From the Arabic, meaning something stuffed, Greek dolma or dolmades/dolmathes (pl.), pronounced dohl-MAH and dohl-MAH-thes, comes in two forms, grape leaf and cabbage. The stuffing ingredients and seasonings vary from region to region in Greece, and in the Middle East they may look like their Greek cousins but it’s the use of local spices, flavorings, and/or fruit/nuts that sets them apart. As in life, it’s what’s on the inside that counts!

Dolmadakia/dolmathakia (ντολμαδάκια), pronounced dohl-mah-THAH-kyah, are small dolmades made with grape leaves (klimatofila) and filled with a ground lamb or beef (or a combination of both)-and-rice stuffing. Dolmadakia made with rice alone are called dolmadakia/dolmathakia gialantzi (ντολμαδάκια γιαλαντζί), pronounced yah-lahnd-ZEE, and, because they’re meatless, can be eaten during Lent or fasting periods (for more on Lenten meals see our blogs on the Greek foods of Lent). Both dolmadakia versions are traditionally served as mezedakia (appetizers) with lemon wedges.

dolmadakia

dolmadakia (with meat-and-rice stuffing)

dolmadakia gialantzi

Lahanodolmades/Lahanodolmathes (λαχανοντολμάδες) are stuffed cabbage (lahano) leaves filled with a ground lamb or beef (or a combination of both)-and-rice stuffing and are served as an entrée topped with Avgolemono (egg-lemon) sauce.

Lahanodolmades are hearty, delicious, and in many Greek homes are served on Sunday afternoon following church services. This is the Greek version of comfort food at its very best!

It’s a Wrap & Roll!

No matter how you wrap it, both dolmadakia and lahanodolmades are delicious, but the prep for the grape leaves and cabbage is a bit different. Following are Kukla’s Kouzina insider tips to help you make your dish perfect every time.

Off the Grape Vine

Grape leaves for dolmadakia come brined in a jar and are widely available in Greek, Mediterranean, and specialty markets. Orlando is the most popular brand but grape leaves are available in other brands as well. Look for light-colored leaves, as these will be young and tender. If you have access to grapevines, again, choose the light green younger leaves—they’ll be smaller but you don’t need large leaves for this. May and June are the peak months for picking fresh young leaves. Dolmadakia also come prepared in a can under many labels, but homemade is always better when it comes to texture and taste!

Orlando grape leaves in brine

Greek Wine Leaves of May in brine

fresh leaves off the vine

canned prepared dolmadakia

Following is the essential preparation that will make your mezedes to die for!

1. Remove the leaves from the jar and carefully unroll them but do not separate. Rinse the leaves under cool water (to remove the brine). Fill a large pot halfway up the sides with water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Carefully add the leaves to the boiling water, return it to a boil, and blanch them until they are bright green—this will only take a couple of minutes, so don’t go anywhere! Drain immediately and rinse under cool water. Drain well and transfer to a large plate. Handle the leaves gently to avoid tearing. Do not throw away any damaged leaves—you’ll need them later.

2. When the leaves are cool enough to handle, line the bottom of a large saucepot with a layer of the reserved damaged leaves. This will keep the dolmadakia from touching the bottom of the pot and burning.

3. Working with one leaf at a time, snip off and discard the tough stem extending from the leaf.

Stuff it!

Arrange the leaf, shiny side down (vein side up), on your work surface and place 1 teaspoon of filling on the stem end of the leaf (a). Fold the leaf end closest to you over the filling, covering the filling completely (b). Fold in the sides (c), then roll to the end of the leaf (d). Place the roll, seam side down, in your prepared pot (e).

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

(e)

Cook it right!

As you fill the pot, make sure the dolmadakia are placed neatly and snuggly against each other in each layer so they don’t move when cooking. When the pot is full, follow your recipe for the amount of broth and any flavorings to add.

Cover the top of the dolmadakia in the pot with an inverted heatproof shallow bowl. The bowl should be small enough to not touch the sides of the pot but large enough that it covers the dolmadakia. The bowl will keep the dolmadakia from rising to the top of the pot and unraveling while cooking, and will ensure that they cook properly.

Follow your recipe for the remaining cooking directions.

Once cooked, dolmadakia can be served warm or at room temperature with lemon slices, though some people enjoy them cold. Your tummy, your choice!

Dolmadakia are typically served with feta, kalamata olives, and assorted dips. For a meze party, pair with ouzo, Ageri (Αγέρι) semi-dry white wine or Rosé Nico Lazaridi.

Cabbage-Patch

In Greece, the best cabbage is picked after the first frost, making it the perfect winter meal. Lahanodolmades are rolled in a similar manner as the grape leaves above but the cabbage requires a little more prep before rolling. Here’s the best way to do it.

1. First, use light green cabbage (left), not Savoy (right). Though Savoy is prettier, it doesn’t cook up as buttery as the more common green variety, and buttery-tender makes these beauties rock!

2. Core the cabbage and discard the outer leaves (a). Place the cabbage, cored side down, in a large pot (b) and fill with enough cold water to cover. Bring to a boil and continue to boil until the leaves are bright green and can be easily separated—this should take about 10 to 15 minutes after the water comes to a boil. Drain and rinse the cabbage under cold water, then drain well and let cool. When cool enough to handle, carefully separate the leaves without tearing them, salt each leaf, and stack on your work surface (c)—set aside and reserve any torn or very small leaves to line the bottom of your pot. Let the leaves cool completely.
TIP: This would be a good time to make your filling.

(a)

(b)

(c)

3. Line a large stockpot with a layer of the reserved torn or small leaves. Working with one leaf at a time, place the leaf, vein side up and cored end facing you, on your work surface.

TRIMMING TIP:
If necessary, cut into the leaf’s stem (in a V shape) to remove any remaining thick spine. This will make them easier to roll and easier to eat once they’re cooked.

Stuff it!

Place about 1 tablespoon of filling at the tip of the V and fold over the leaf to cover the filling (a). Fold in the sides (b) and continue to roll to the end of the leaf (c). For the leaves that are a little too small, you can overlap two to form a larger leaf before filling. You can also patch up any tears this way. Place the roll, seam side down (d), in your prepared pot.

(a)

(b)

(c)

(d)

Cook it right!

As you fill the pot, make sure the dolmades are placed neatly and snuggly against each other in each layer so they don’t move while cooking.

When the pot is full, follow your recipe for the amount of broth and any flavorings to add.

Cover the top of the dolmades with an inverted heatproof shallow bowl. The bowl should be small enough to not touch the sides of the pot but large enough that it covers the dolmades. The bowl will keep the dolmades in place while cooking, and will ensure that they cook properly.

Follow your recipe for the remaining cooking directions.

Lahanodolmades are served hot, topped with Avgolemono sauce, or plain with juices from the pot and lemon.

For the perfect presentation, it's best to arrange the rolls on individual serving plates and then top them with the sauce (don't drown them!). Feel free to garnish with lemon slices, dill, chives, or parsley to add color to your creation. Add a Greek salad and a glass of red Erythros (Ερυθρός) wine to complete the meal!

That’s a wrap for this week’s dolmadakia and lahanodolmades lesson. You’re all set to stuff, wrap & roll...and to cook another Greek dish like a pro!

Two kinds of dolmadakia recipes (with meat and without) are in our Meze cookbook, available on Amazon! Stay tuned for more upcoming how-to Greek foodie blogs.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly

14 Comments

Flour Kouzina

One Size Does Not Fit All

Got Greek Flour?

Greek Dolmades~ Stuff, Wrap & Roll

Dolma 101: Grape Leaves Versus Cabbage

It’s a Wrap & Roll!

Off the Grape Vine

Stuff it!

Cook it right!

Cabbage-Patch

Stuff it!

Cook it right!

about

visit & follow

olive oil kouzina

author
Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos

categories

archives

foodie links
Kontos Foods
Sahadi's
Mediterranean Foods
Titan Foods
'Anama Concept
Recipiada
Grubstreet
Eater

Flour Kouzina

One Size Does Not Fit All

Got Greek Flour?

Greek Dolmades~ Stuff, Wrap & Roll

Dolma 101: Grape Leaves Versus Cabbage

It’s a Wrap & Roll!

Off the Grape Vine

Stuff it!

Cook it right!

Cabbage-Patch

Stuff it!

Cook it right!

about

visit & follow

olive oil kouzina

author Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos

categories

archives

foodie linksKontos FoodsSahadi's​Mediterranean FoodsTitan Foods'Anama ConceptRecipiadaGrubstreetEater

author
Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos

foodie links
Kontos Foods
Sahadi's
Mediterranean Foods
Titan Foods
'Anama Concept
Recipiada
Grubstreet
Eater