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Tavernas & Restaurants of Karpathos

7/4/2022

18 Comments

 

Find Your Kefi !

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This week’s Karpathos destination is the eateries of this inimitable island. We’re going to take you to the best tavernas and restaurants in Karpathos where the foods we talked about last week leap off the menus, and the hosts make you feel right at home. When it comes to eating out, Karpathos is all about scrumptious meals and wholehearted hospitality!

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If you’re wondering what the difference is between a taverna and a restaurant, here’s the bottom line: A taverna is basically a casual eatery with a well-stocked bar that serves ouzo, Metaxa, etc., and has live music (usually at night and into the wee hours). A restaurant can be more formal and may or may not have music. Some tavernas call themselves restaurants and vice versa. And some call themselves BOTH! Confused? Don’t be. You’ll figure out what it is when you see it. When in Greece, just go with the flow! 

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Olympos
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Show Me the Taverna!

So where do you eat in Karpathos when you visit? With over 70 restaurants and tavernas (or tavernes in Greek) throughout the island, you never have to eat at the same place twice…unless you really want to. 

Most people will stroll through a town and see what catches their eye (or nose). You could be wandering downhill in Olympos in the late afternoon and spot tables set by the side of a windmill overlooking the sea. Your first thought is WOW, what an amazing spot to enjoy the local, rustic fare, have a glass of wine and watch the sun set over the water (this place actually does exist, read on for more details). 

You could be enjoying a day at the beach and, between swimming and sunbathing, you smell fresh fish cooking at the taverna overlooking the shore (lots of those). Suddenly you realize it’s lunchtime and that it doesn’t get more perfect than this…unless you throw in a Greek salad and some crusty bread. Eat a little, go for a swim, then eat some more. 

This is the good life, Greek-island style!
Follow us for a tour of some of the notable tavernas and restaurants in Karpathos and see if you can pick a favorite…we dare you! 

Price guide: L (low), M (moderate)
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La Gorgona, Diafani

Owner/chef: Gabriella (she’s from Genoa)

Menu: Greco-Italian fare

Price: L-M

Food: Delicious and beautifully presented. Cooking classes by Gabriella, upon request!

House specialties: Gabriella's pasta, tarama, stuffed eggplant, zucchini fritters, eggplant salad, parmigiana, pestos, divine homemade tiramisu and Limoncello, the best cappuccino and espresso (mocha or macchiatto) on the island. Picnic sandwiches and pizza for the beach.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Pretty setting, warm and gracious host, interesting people, very social and fun!

View: Overlooks the Diafani fountain and breathtaking bay…a mini paradise!

Music: Yes


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Gabriella's specials
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La Gorgona overlooking the Diafani fountain and bay

Taverna Perdika, Menetes

Owner/chef: Kostas Zavolas and his wife Sophia (their five daughters help out)

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare

Price: L

Food: Delicious generous portions at very reasonable prices.

House specialties: Tzatziki, dolmadakia, eggplant salad, local cheeses, gyro, makarounes, fried calamari (freshly caught by Kosta), moussaka…if it’s on the menu, it’s great! An ouzo and loukoumathes drizzled with thyme honey are complementary.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Set in the mountains in a beautiful village, there’s a simple beauty to this taverna that’s very comfortable. The Spartan décor seems like a magical throwback to the island’s rustic beginnings. Very friendly and fun!

Music: Yes


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roast lamb and potatoes
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loukoumades

Four Seasons Taverna, Amoopi

Owner/chef: Mike, George, and the entire Diakos family

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare, as well as giant pizza.

Price: L-M

Food: Great food and service!

House specialties: Delicious homemade onion bread served with olive spread, tender veal. An ouzo to start and small dessert (fruit or homemade cakes) for a sweet finish are complementary.
Special drink: Try their "Ouzo-Orange" or "Bloody Ouzo."

Atmosphere/hospitality: The welcoming Diakos family goes out of its way to make sure everyone has a special experience. A roof garden adds a relaxing, lovely place to sit and listen to music.

View: Ideal view of Amoopi Bay from the terrace on the upper floor. For an unforgettable evening, go for an early dinner and watch the rising moon from the "balcony to the Aegean."

Music: Yes


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onion bread with olive spread and butter
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seafood platter

Perama Maria Taverna, Amoopi

Owner/chef: Stamatis and Maria (a very friendly husband-and-wife team)

Menu: Traditional Greek fare prepared fresh daily. Check out the little yellow post-it note on the menu for the genuinely Greek dishes.

Price: L-M

Food: Maria has watched her family cook delicious food for over 25 years so you know what she cooks comes straight from her heart. You can put in a special request with Stamatis a day in advance and he’ll gather the ingredients the next morning and have your meal prepared for you that evening.

House specialties: Oven-roasted lamb, goat kleftiko, moussaka, fresh fish soup, and shrimp saganaki. An ouzo and small dessert are complementary.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Small, simple, and intimate, with about 15 tables. Quick and friendly service. Stamatis and Maria are there to make sure everyone is happy and enjoying the finest on the menu.

Music: No

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roasted lamb and potatoes
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Milos Taverna, Olympos

Owner/chef: Family owned along with the adjacent gristmill and outdoor wood-burning oven

Menu: Karpathian fare unique to Olympos. Not to be missed!

Price: L

Food: Completely local and fresh. Great value!

House specialties: Kritamo toursi (fresh sea-greens salad), dolmathakia, stuffed zucchini blossoms, homemade bread, makarounes, lemony keftethes (lamb meatballs), kolokithokeftethes (zucchini patties), moussaka. Loukoumathes drizzled with thyme honey are complementary.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Rustic, ancient, charming, and welcoming.

View: A veranda that faces the valley on one side, and on the other, a terrace that overlooks the east coast of the island with breathtaking sea views. A great place to eat and watch the most spectacular sunset in the Aegean.

Music: No


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Psarotaverna Dolphin, Finiki

Owner/chef: Nikos Kaoukakis and his family (they’re from Crete)

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare, specializing in seafood

Price: L-M

Food: Great service and gorgeous fish. The owner and his brother have a fishing boat and go out every morning to make sure they have fresh daily specials.

House specialties: This is a fish taverna featuring the best fish in Karpathos, if not all of Greece, so all things fish: Spaghetti with lobster, fried barbouni, tsipoura (sea bream), shrimp or mussels saganaki, hand-cut fries, fresh horta (wild greens sautéed with olive oil and garlic), Cretan raki (whiskey). Pagoto (ice cream) is complementary.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Warm and very friendly. A cozy beach waits across the road for an afternoon siesta. This is a place where memories are made.

View: Magnificent view of the charming bay of Finiki and the island of Kasos.

Music: No


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mussels saganaki

I Kriti Taverna, Arkassa

Owner/chef: Victoria and Yanni

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare

Price: L-M

Food: Delicious and beautifully prepared. Can accommodate vegetarians.

House specialties: Oven-roasted lamb, makarounes, homemade pies and cakes.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Warm and very friendly. Victoria speaks five languages and is happy to tell you about the history of the island.

Music: No

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Under the Trees Taverna 
~on the coastal road from Finiki to Lefkos (500m north of Piles exit)

Owner/chef: Kostas Ikonomides

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare with a highlight on fish

Price: L

Food: Huge portions, delicious Greek food, inexpensive. Kosta grows his own vegetables and takes pride in the food he serves.

House specialties: Fresh fish, calamari, grilled tsipoura, crab salad, fried cod, lamb chops

Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly, good service. A welcoming, magical oasis that seems to pop up in the middle of nowhere.

View: Secluded with a spectacular seaside panorama

Music: No

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Mezzaria, Othos

Menu: Breakfast, meze, Karpathian fare, and themed meals

Price: M

Food: Petite plates and hearty meals

House specialties: Karpathian omelet (with fresh tomato, peppers, and feta), pancakes, samouses.
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Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly and beloved town restaurant.

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To Otheitiko, Othos

Menu: Local and authentic Greek fare

Price: L-M

Food: Fresh ingredients and homemade Karpathian favorites

House specialties: Dolmadakia, gyro, souvlaki, makarounes, fried zucchini, loukoumades drizzled with honey
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Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly and welcoming in a delightful village.


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Taverna Nina, Kastelia Lakki, Amoopi 

Owner/chef: Ekizoglou family

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare

Price: L

Food: Fresh ingredients, everything is homemade, genuine and organic

House specialties: Stifado (rabbit, lamb, or beef stew with pearl onions), gyro, pork and lamb souvlaki, kleftiko, greek salad, crab salad, makarounes, octopus in vinager, moussaka, horta. An ouzo or wine and fresh melon are complementary.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly, funny brothers manage the taverna. Tollis Ekizoglou, the waiter, greets you with a smile, suggests the best dishes on the menu, and keeps you entertained with his stories. They also have a pool where you can swim and eat poolside.

View: Terrace overlooks the beautiful bay of Lakki.

Music: No


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stifado

The Life of Angels, Pigadia (Apodimion Karpathion 69)

About: More than 110 years old, The Life of Angels started out as a coffee shop for the men of the villages to gather, talk, enjoy a demitasse, play tavli (backgammon), and perform traditional Karpathian music. Built in 1830 by Zoedia Karavias, it remains a one-of-a-kind structure on the island.

Owners/chefs: Zoe Konstantinidis Frangos and her daughter Angeliki Frangos

Menu: Greek, Mediterranean, and Vegetarian

Price: M

Food: Generous servings of locally sourced, organic produce and meats from Karpathos and Crete. Traditional Greek cuisine using family recipes passed down for generations. Zoe, the heart of the restaurant, made it her mission to support local farmers, feature vegetarian fare, and offer home-cooked foods (like she would to guests in her own home)—it’s no wonder this eatery is seriously popular with tourists. Cooking classes are offered during the day for customers who are interested in learning how to make a specific dish.

House specialties: Fresh beef stifado and oven-baked Karpathian lamb.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Welcoming family ambiance

View: The best view of Pigadia bay.
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Music: Yes

Mike’s Restaurant, Pigadia

Owner/chef: Manolis and Minas

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare, as well as Italian dishes

Price: L-M

Food: Fresh vegetables and succulent meats. Raki and loukoumathes are complementary.

House specialties: Moussaka, kleftiko, horta, grilled tsipoura alongside a legendary baked potato with a yogurt sauce.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly, quick, and attentive staff.

View: Pigadia harbor or charming side-street.

Music: No

Al Porto, Pigadia

Menu: Italian

Price: L-M

Food: Reviewers claim the pizza is like dining in Italy (for when you need a break from Greek food). Try the onion, tomato, and olive red pizza.

House specialties: A variety of pizza and pasta dishes, including Pizza Crado with mascarpone cheese and a garden-fresh summertime spaghetti with tomato and pesto.

Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly and fun.

View: Charming side street with Pigadia harbor partial view.

Phone: +30 2245 022772

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onion, tomato, and olive red pizza
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summertime spaghetti with tomato and pesto
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Al Porto

Pelagos, Pigadia

Owner/chef: Panaretos family

Menu: Local and traditional Greek fare

Price: L

Food: The food is average but Pelagos is actually popular for their live music, meze, and drinks. We suggest you come to Pelagos after dinner for traditional Greek bands, dancing, and a nightcap (or two).

House specialties: Shrimp Saganaki, ouzo, Metaxa, cocktails

Atmosphere/hospitality: Friendly and welcoming family. Slow food service but great music and a fun time.

Music: Yes! It starts at 8:30pm and goes until midnight, featuring musicians like Konstantinos Maris, a brilliant lyra player. Then the traditional Karpathian three-piece acoustic group takes over and plays into the wee hours. If you want to try the local dances like the sousta, this is for you!
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These were the tavernas and restaurants that received high marks for food, atmosphere, cost, and hospitality. We also put together a slideshow (below) of tavernas and restaurants that deserve honorable mention~plus they're really pretty!
Most Karpathian restaurants and tavernas have wonderful local dishes as well as traditional Greek fare. Their rustic round bread loaves, spanakopites, and pickled wild sea-fennel salad are to die for, but so are their souvlaki, dolmadakia, stuffed tomatoes, peppers, and zucchini flowers. 

If you find yourself in an area with no clue as to which eatery is good, there’s one simple rule: When in doubt, follow your nose. Is the smell of the food like a Siren call? Is it shouting “Come, sit, EAT!”? Is the aroma making you suddenly ravenous and feeing weak in the knees? If you answered yes to any of these Qs, you have your answer. Add a stunning view (which is typical here but not necessary), good hospitality, and reasonable prices (most are!), and an ouzo or cold Mythos beer (which will make everything look and taste even better) and you have the makings of a meal fit for a Greek god…YOU!
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spanakopites
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stuffed zucchini flowers & dolmadakia
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stuffed tomates & peppers
For more Karpathos taverna/restaurant listings check TripAdvisor.com. It’s the only organized online list at the moment. Note that the town attributions aren’t always correct and their rating system is a bit off, so click on the individual restaurant listings and read the comment section for reviews, and to see which town they’re actually in.

Kitty Kefi

Need a feline fix while you're on vacation? You'll have no trouble getting some 1-on-1 (or 1-on-12) on this island! Cats roam free in Karpathos, as they do all over Greece, and they’re everywhere! Like you, they love Greek food (this is their kefi!) so don’t be surprised if these irresistible creatures come to your table for a taste. They have a keen sense of smell, especially for fish, and love human company! (Some eateries would prefer not to have dozens of kitties flocking to their customers, so check with your waiter to see if it’s okay to feed them.)
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I hope you found your kefi (food or feline) in our Karpathos taverna tour. To try a popular taverna specialty, see our recipe for Kritamo Toursi in our blog Pickling~Greek Island Style. For more on Greek-island cooking, check out our blog Greek Cooking with a Karpathos Island Twist. Stay tuned for more segments on the island's history and culture! If there's anything you'd like to know about Karpathos or its foods, let us know and maybe we'll do an entire blog on it.

Our new cookbooks Kukla’s Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style, Meze (Appetizers & Petite Plates) and Spreads & Dips are available on Amazon. These are the first two books in a series that we have developed and we’re excited to see this dream become reality! For details about the books and us, go to our BOOKS page. Meze and Spreads & Dips will complete their gourmet journey when they arrive in your home!

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly
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18 Comments

Karpathos Island Beach Paradise & Sports Mecca

6/20/2022

8 Comments

 

Karpathos (Κάρπαθος)~A Gem in the Aegean!

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Summer begs for an island getaway, so this week we're taking a little break from food and celebrating the many ways Karpathos can "wet" your appetite. Our virtual guide will take you there and will give you a sneak peak into the best-kept secret in the Aegean. 

Kukla’s Kouzina was born in Karpathos, so come visit with us and find out about the inspiration that makes our style of cooking so unique and delicious!

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One of the few unspoiled isles in the Aegean and a utopia of culinary delights, Karpathos—the second largest island of the Dodecanese chain, nestled between its more renowned neighbors Crete and Rhodes—is one of the most breathtaking islands in Greece. 

Surprisingly, this island only started to appear on tourist’s radar about 10 years ago. The oversaturation of tourism to popular isles like Crete, Rhodes, Mykonos, and Santorini no doubt led people on a road of discovery in search of a less congested place of natural beauty, authentic, picturesque villages, and exotic beaches. 

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Their search ended in Karpathos, a long narrow island partitioned by a mountainous ridge (boasting an altitude of over 1,200 meters), which separates the modernized southern part of the island from the virtually untouched northern region.

In the south you'll find the island's capital, Pigadia, with it’s kefi-filled tavernes, water sports, resort-style hotels, and award-winning beaches.

In the northern region, visitors can observe the most traditional villages dating back to the 1400s, where age-old customs and lifestyle reveal a simpler time and place. 

This is the charm and allure of Karpathos!
An Island Paradise
In this multi-part blog, we’re going to get you up close and personal with the many intriguing facets of this remarkable precious jewel at the center of our cookbook's heritage. In this first segment we’re going to hit the best beaches and explore the sports activities Karpathos is famous for around the globe.
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Apella Beach in Karpathos was rated #1 in Europe’s Best Beaches in 2003, so it’s no surprise that this island paradise is predominantly famous for its exotic golden-sand and crystal sapphire-water beaches. The dramatic mountainous backdrop completes an ambiance to inspire wonder. Secluded beaches are seeded throughout the island, many giving visitors the impression that they are the first to step onto these irresistible shores and escape into their hidden coves.

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Top 10 Notable Beaches

There are a number of great beaches on Karpathos and there just isn’t enough time to list them all, so we chose the top 10 among natives and visitors, along with details for each. Somewhere in this group there’s a beach made for you!

TIPS: A beach must is to halfway fill a large bottle of water, freeze, then fill the rest of the bottle with cold water and take it with you to stay hydrated. Pack snacks and lunch if you’d like to save on eating out and take along a blanket and towel if you want to avoid the expense of rentals. And don't forget the sunscreen! 

Apella Beach



· Rated #1 in Europe's Best Beaches for 2003.
· Located on the central east coast, this white sand-and-pebble beach with a crystal-clear, sapphire-blue sea, is surrounded by luxurious green pine.
· This is a great spot for swimming, sunbathing, and picnicking.
· A restaurant sits above the beach…a bit pricey but, hey, it’s Apella!
· About 11 miles north of the island’s capital, Pigadia, this beach can be accessed via excursion boats departing from Pigadia, or by car. Parking is seriously limited so, if you’re driving, get there early!

Kyra Panagia Beach


· One of the most famous beaches in Karpathos, Kyra Panagia, on the central east coast, is a tourist and native favorite for two reasons, it’s close to the capital, about 9 miles north, and absolutely gorgeous.
· The beach is named after the Virgin Mary (with its namesake church situated above the beach) and is composed of golden sand and deep-blue water with chair and umbrella rentals.
· There’s also a rock that you can safely jump off of into the sea. The water in this area is pretty deep so you have to be a strong swimmer to dive in.
· The beach is easily accessed from the village of Aperi, 4.4 miles away.

Ahata Beach




· Eight miles north of Pigadia on the east coast is Ahata, a lovely, quiet pebble beach with large pebbles on land that become tiny in the water.
· Great for sunbathing but beware if you’re not a strong swimmer—after 2 steps into the water you will find yourself completely submerged and it can be tricky to climb out because the pebbles shift as you try to get out. 
· There is a taverna just steps from the beach and they have great frappé!  
· The beach is easily accessed from the village of Aperi, about 3 miles away.


Amoopi Beach 
(our cousins’ favorite)





There are two Amoopi beaches (because just one wouldn’t be enough!) on the southeast coast: Megali (big) Amoopi or Votsalakia (meaning little pebbles) and Mikri (small) Amoopi. Umbrellas and chairs can be rented at both beaches. Both are about 4.5 miles south of Pigadia and can be accessed by car or bus from the capital.

Megali Amoopi
· This is the most popular beach in Karpathos, with a mix of young and older tourists. Greek/Karpathian-Americans, island natives—this is where they all meet up and hang out.
· There are three restaurants at Megali Amoopi and a taverna called "Avra" where young people drink coffee and play tavli (Greek backgammon) and there’s beach volleyball right next door.

Mikri Amoopi
· ​One of the loveliest beaches on the island with light golden sand and shimmering blue water.
· Smaller and more quiet than Megali Amoopi (perfect for the serious sunbather).
· This beach has a few tavernes.
· Just south of Megali Amoopi (you can walk between the two beaches).

Arkasa/Arkassa Beach
(Agios Nikolaos Beach) 




· A lovely sandy beach situated on the southwest side of the island in the town of Arkasa, about 10 miles from Pigadia.
· The waves make this one of the best beaches for windsurfing, body surfing, or boogie boarding.
· You do need to be a strong swimmer, and stay away from the left-hand side of the beach where markers are posted in the water about the riptide that exists on that side only. 
·  Facilities include umbrellas, sunbeds, and freshwater showers.
· Arkasa's Agios Nikolaos features great fish tavernes near the beach.
· The beach can be accessed by car or bus from Pigadia.

Agios Minas Beach



· A remote beach on the northeast side of the island north of Apella, Agios Minas is one of the most beautiful small, flat-pebble beaches in Karpathos.
· This secluded, wide beach, tucked into the heart of nature, could only be accessed by private boat prior to 2004, but today it is a tourist mecca, with sunbed rentals and an odd little taverna. Your best bet here would be to bring your own chair, food, and drink.
· There’s a rough gravel road leading to the beach, so the best way to access it is to rent a 4-wheel drive vehicle or take a boat excursion from Pigadia.

Vrontis Beach



· Within the bay of Pigadia on the east coast is Vrontis (the locals also call it “Xenonas”), the largest sandy beach in Karpathos. It stretches 2.5 miles, and is connected to Ammos and Afoti beaches.
· The beach is covered with sunbeds and umbrellas, and there’s a large soft-sand area where visitors can play a number of beach games.
· Perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and families.
· Many restaurants, tavernes, and shops surround the area.
· Vrontis is easily accessible on foot if you’re staying in Pigadia.


Diafani Beach

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· Diafani is a fishing village built around a small bay and is home to the second most important port in Karpathos. The picturesque white flat-roofed houses surround the bay, offering a lovely view of the fishing boats and port. The beauty of the village and port have turned Diafani into a budding tourist destination over the last few years.
· Diafani is on the northeast side of the island, 41.5 miles from Pigadia, and 6.2 miles from the traditional village of Olympos.
· Diafani's small beach is next to the port and consists of little, flat pebbles and trees for shade. 
· After swimming and sunbathing, walk up to any of the fresh-fish tavernes that line the waterfront and enjoy their local dishes, a cold beverage, and their hospitality while looking out at the beautiful Aegean Sea.
· There are a few small hotels in this laid-back town. Add the charming setting and it’s the perfect destination for a relaxing family or couple’s getaway.
· The roads leading to Diafani are long and difficult by car but the beach and village are easily accessed by boat from Pigadia.


Diakofti(s) Beach

· The exotic beach of Diakofti, with its white-golden-sand beach and crystal-clear emerald water, is on the southern end of the island, about 13 miles from Pigadia. The magnificent landscape surrounding the beach, on it’s own, is worth the trip.
· Accessing the beach is easy. By car from Pigadia, take the road to Arkasa, then turn left and follow the road along the runway to the airport (about 3.7 miles). This is the ultimate scenic route and the remarkable beauty of this place will make up for the time it takes to get to the beach.
· If you turn right at the fork (heading west) just before Diakofti Beach, you will come across bays with three secluded sandy beaches that are equally as beautiful: “Tou Mihaliou o Kepos”/Michaliou Kipos (“The Garden of Michael”), Psorari(s), and Pounta. These beaches have no facilities at all but are perfect for peaceful moments to enjoy the splendor of their natural wonder.


Lefkos Bay Beaches

· Lefkos Bay is on the central west coast and has shady pine trees that surrounded a long white-sand beach that includes three coves with crystalline waters. The first cove, Gialou Chorafi (the field at the beach), is the most popular beach in the area and offers the most in facilities; the second, Panagias Limani (the port of the Holy Mother) is small and quiet; the third, Fragolimniona(s), is the largest and most impressive which also has many facilities and lies across from the small island of Sokastro.
· There are many hotels and good fish tavernes near the beach.
· Lefkos Bay is 19.3 miles from Pigadia and 10.6 miles from Arkasa village. To access the beach and village from Pigadia, drive west through the mountains. From Arkasa, drive north along the coast.


Saria Islet

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· The small rocky, volcanic islet of Saria, on the northern edge of Karpathos, is separated from the mainland by a long, narrow channel (330 feet wide). It’s believed that at one time the two islands were joined and a strong earthquake divided them.
· This tiny isolated island has a stunning landscape of sharp cliffs, calcareous rock beds, deep caves and fast-running streams that surround virgin white-sand beaches with crystal-clear water.
· Historical records reveal that the ancient city and kingdom of Nisyros existed here. The ruins of Nisyros, including a temple devoted to Apollo, can still be found on the seabed between Saria and Karpathos.
· Today Saria is inhabited by a handful of people, mostly shepherds that tend their flocks. There is also a breeding area for a falcon variety called Eleonora’s Falcon.
· In the summer, you can access Saria via small tour boats from Pigadia with frequent daily excursions.
There are many more beaches to enjoy in Karpathos, so your best course of action would be to take a drive, follow a road, and see where it ends. You’ll discover that paradise awaits you at every turn!

A Treasure Trove Of Water Sports And More!

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Although not a party island like Mykonos, Karpathos has a lot more to offer, especially if you’re on the active side. Over the last few years, Karpathos has turned into a sports-enthusiast’s mecca with ideal conditions in various island locations for a number of water sports (including windsurfing and diving), and land activities (like rock climbing and hiking). Tours and classes are available for beginners to advanced. Following is an overview of the fun that awaits you:

Windsurfing / Surfing

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​Because of its distance from mass tourism, Karpathos is able to offer its isolated beaches, scenic, welcoming mountain villages, and intimate tavernes. What makes this island so attractive is the untouched countryside, hospitable natives, and natural wonders. One of those wonders is Karpathos’ well-renowned wind guarantee, making windsurfing the ultimate sport.

In the summer months, Karpathos is a windsurfer's dream come true. The geography of this long, narrow island situated between Rhodes and Crete puts Karpathos in the ideal location for the Meltemi anemos (ἄνεμος, wind) blowing full force from the north through the high mountains. High-winds peak In July and August making the surf conditions beyond perfect for experienced windsurfers. 

ION Club offers rentals and instruction. Three bays at the southern tip of the island (where the wind is strongest) cover all experience levels and styles: beach-start, waist-deep Chicken Bay (for novices, intermediates, and freestylers), world-famous Gun Bay (for intermediates and experienced), and Devil’s Bay (for the pros). Steady winds in May and between September and October, make conditions ideal for beginners and intermediates, as well as for experts.

Kitesurfing courses for beginner to advanced are also available.

Surfvival is the first surf school in Karpathos 
and offers classes (and boards) on four beautiful beaches on the west coast of the island near the village of Arkasa−Agios Nikolaos, Agia Sofia, Agios Georgios, and Fokia−​that are ideal for kids, beginners, intermediate, and advanced, as well as for swimmers and non-surfing friends who just want to relax and watch. The shore-braking waves are perfect for any surf experience. They also offer windsurfing and bike rentals!

Diving 




Diving is first rate here and the Karpathos Diving Center, located in Pigadia on the main promenade road near the center of the city, is your ticket to diving tours through the island’s underwater caverns, corridors, reefs, alleys, a cathedral (an enormous chamber with numerous entrances and beams of sunlight streaming in from the surface), and so much more!

Shore and boat diving adventures and classes for beginners to experienced go from 12m to 40m deep, and reveal a stunning view of marine life and pelagic species, including stingrays, spiny lobster, tuna, rare yellow anemones, red sponges, sea bream, sardines, gold-blotch groupers, moray eels, and monk seals. 

Excursions take divers to over a dozen prime locations, including Kastelia Bay, Fokias Reef, Ahata Beach, Kyra Panagia, Diafani (with a visit to the 1988 shipwreck MS Dias visited by amberjacks), Saria Island (a favorite spot for monk seals), Pigadia Bay (where you can spot ammo from WW2 or check out St. Peter’s Cathedral).

Snorkeling




Karpathos is also the best snorkeling destination in the Mediterranean, especially on the pebbly west coast, which attracts a variety of fish, and the underwater nature is staggering. Lonely Planet named Karpathos among the best islands for snorkeling/diving and for good reason. The natural coral reefs throughout the island are home to a number of sea creatures and flora, and you can snorkel off any beach. 

You never know what you’re going to find so pack your flippers and get ready to discover the many underwater utopias this island has to offer!

Rock/Mountain Climbing





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Karpathos has some awesome climbing spots on the seaside mountains of this unique island. The view at the top is always worth the hike!

Ion Club has guided excursions for all experience levels. Bring water, snacks, SPF, and hiking shoes! 



Walking, Hiking & Mountain Biking

This is an ideal place for families, trekkers, and thrill-seekers interested in walking, hiking, ATV rental, and mountain biking.

The trekking paths that cross the island lead visitors to breathtaking settings, and there are 60 or 70 fun trails in Karpathos for serious mountain bikers, as well as beginners, that are enjoyed year round. Wear good shoes (no flip-flops) and bring SPF and water!

And for those who are into surf & turf, get directions to walking/hiking locations up above the water to a spot where you can safely jump in and cool off.

BEST HIKE: Take a walk up the lush and wild Flaskias gorge to the plateau of Lastos and climb to Kali Limni (1,215 m), the highest summit on Karpathos (a 5- to 6-hour walk). The view from the top is spectacular!

BEACH YOGA: Find Your Inner Greek Yogi!

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Relax, meditate, and become one with this spiritual place. 
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Kathy’s Island Retreat offers courses for all levels on the beach in Pigadia! 

Many tourists have become addicted to Karpathos. The “repeaters” return year after year, sometimes twice a year, because of the beauty, activities, hospitality, and relaxed ambiance of this remarkable island. Are you ready for your journey of discovery?

                     How to Get There

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From Piraeus in Athens, there are 17- to 21-hour ship and ferry excursions to Karpathos throughout the year. In the summer, there are boat tours to Karpathos from Crete and other Aegean islands. 

Karpathos also has an international airport, with direct summer flights from Athens taking just 30 minutes. Olympic Air offers flights to Karpathos from Athens, as well as from Thessaloniki, the two largest cities in Greece. 


We hope you enjoyed your first peak into the summertime beauty, sun, and fun of Karpathos. Stay tuned for more segments on the island's history, food, and culture!

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday for a look at the foods of Karpathos!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly
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Honey~Karpathian Gold

8/2/2021

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This week we're sharing our sweet experiences in Karpathos, our favorite honeys (along with recipes), and info on where you can buy them. Hold onto your appetite, this is going to be a tasty ride!

Our Taste of Honeyed Nectar

When my sister Joanne went to Karpathos a few years ago and told our cousin’s husband Vangeli (Βαγγέλη) that she wanted to see where and how their honey was made. He brought her to this remote place in the mountains (vouna, βουνά) and, as luck would have it, just as they arrived, so did the bee harvesters.
 
They removed the honeycombs from their truck, with a few bees still attached, and brought them into a tiny structure. They began by scraping off some of the honey from the combs into vats (Joanne guessed that it was the excess) and then placed the combs in huge drums that spin the honey out of them.
 
One of the men gave her a piece of honeycomb to try it. This was her first time eating raw honey off a comb so she asked him “how do you eat it.” They all told her to put the comb in her mouth and treat it like gum. So here goes, she thought, and dove in. The honey oozed out and the comb was like wax (which you spit out when you’re done). She beamed “It was the most delectable honey I had ever tasted. Light, airy, not sugary sweet like the ones you buy in the supermarket.” Her husband, Vinnie, wouldn't try it (not the adventurous type) because he thought they would get botulism (which didn't happen). Their daughter Jackie, who was only 4½ at the time, didn't want to chew the wax so she hesitantly and skeptically put some honey on her tongue and a smile bloomed from ear to ear …an undeniable stamp of approval. “It was sweet, fresh, and warm,” she said, “a one-of-a-kind honey.”
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the honeycomb
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scraping the excess honey off the comb
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drum (in rear, left side)
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After getting a taste of what real honey should taste like, Vangeli took Joanne, Jackie, and Vinnie around the seaside town of Pigadia, popping in and out of shops and introducing them around. Their journey of varying landscapes, Karpathian foodie culture, and meeting the natives (95 percent of which turned out to be cousins in one form or another), was anything but boring.
 
“We were walking in the town and Vangeli specifically wanted us to go into what was like this general [food] store and behold another cousin!” Joanne shared, thinking that they seemed to be darting out of every corner. If you wanted to avoid them, which luckily she didn’t, you’d have to get off the island (but even then there were no guarantees). “We talked for a bit while Vinnie perused the shop,” she continued, “and he came upon a large can of thyme honey that said ‘Made in Olympos’ (a mountain village in Karpathos) with the name George Halkias on the label. Since our grandfather’s side of the family was named Halkias and most of the cousins we met were a Halkias, immediately we both think, Hey, we’re related to him!...our uncle was even named George Halkias. So I asked Vangeli about this ‘relative’ and his astounding, nonchalant reply was "Oh no, no, we aren't related to them." This, after an entire day of finding cousins in every crevice, I thought, how is it possible that we are on the same Island where our grandparents are from, and he’s named Halkias, and we aren't related?? Well, we just weren't, or so he said…then we figured maybe the name Halkias was like Jones or Smith here. We concluded there must have been a bit if inbreeding going on, and at sometime, somewhere, on someone’s family tree we are related.”
 
After all this commotion that started over a can of honey, the shop owner-cousin gave them the honey as a gift to take home. Sweet! Joanne shared the honey with me when she returned and it was the best I had ever tasted…I only wish I were there to taste it fresh off the honeycomb!

Honey Picks

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Karpathian honey is not widely exported but a close second is thyme honey from Crete, which is available in Greek grocery stores and Mediterranean shops, as well as online. Our favorite is honey with mastic from 776 Deluxe Foods, flavored with a drop of masticha oil extracted from the sap of the mastic tree. The aroma has an herbal-pine scent that makes this luscious one-of-a-kind honey lovely on its own, or add to lemonade, ice cream, or drizzle over fresh figs for a pop of Greek flavor! Another favorite is Cretan Monastiri honey, a pure "anthomelo" (ανθόμελο) that is produced from the nectar of flowers located in remotely populated areas on the island. Monastiri beekeepers position their hives on the rocky, windswept hills of the island, as they have for 3,000 years. The honey is harvested, aged, filtered, and cleared naturally, without the use of any preservatives. The resulting honey embodies a subtle thyme aroma and an intense floral aftertaste, perfect in teas, over yogurt, and on toast, as well as for cooking.
​This honey is rich in enzymes that relieve inflammation and is hailed as an excellent source of energy for athletes, children (not to be given to children under the age of 12 months), and pregnant women. It's also good for digestion and is renowned for its antimicrobial properties.
 
Monastiri honey is minimally processed so it crystallizes naturally. To return a honey to its liquid form, gently heat it by placing the opened jar in a pan of hot water over low heat just until the crystals liquefy, 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to overheat. It should be stored at room temperature (not refrigerated) away from sunlight and heat.
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The nearby island of Cyprus is leading the procession of raw honey and honey spreads with Ariadne Pure (known as Mellona in Cyprus). Their boutique collection, including an organic oak-tree honey, uses only raw honey and one natural local ingredient for each spread. All display a smooth, creamy texture, genuine flavor, and aroma. It begins with their original Raw Honey, the base for the other varieties, which include Grape Syrup (with grape must), chocolate-like Carob (with pure carob syrup), Almonds, Hazelnuts, and Peanuts. These spreads are wonderful on toast or stirred into milk or cereal for breakfast. They can be added to salad dressings, fruit, tea, or served over ice cream. The spreads can also replace sugar when baking, and make the perfect glaze for poultry, fowl or pork (a chef’s secret instant weapon!).

Honey Glazed Gorgonzola-Stuffed Figs with Pancetta

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Serves 4
Serving size: 2 figs

8 slices pancetta, or thick-cut bacon
8 fresh figs
6 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
4 ounces Ariadne Pure raw (Mellona) Honey

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Arrange pancetta on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until it just starts to brown but is still flexible (do NOT overbake), about 5 minutes. Transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool slightly. Drain excess drippings from baking sheet but do not wash.

2. While the pancetta is baking, trim the stem of each fig and cut an “X” into the tops, slicing ¾ of the way down, keeping the base of the figs intact. Gently open the figs and stuff each with cheese. Reshape figs and wrap with pancetta, sealing in the cheese. Secure the pancetta to each fig by pushing a toothpick into the pancetta outer loose end and through the other side of the fig.

3. Warm the honey spread and coat the outside of the wrapped figs. 

4. Place figs 1 inch apart, stem end up, on the baking sheet and bake until the pancetta is golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove toothpicks and transfer figs to serving plates. Serve warm with a light salad, if desired. 

© Recipe by Chef Chris Smith, created for the Cyprus Embassy Trade Commission

Some of the popular Karpathian and Greek dishes that prominently feature honey are Sisamomelo (a sesame-honey paste served at weddings), Loukoumades, Honey Cake, Melomakarona, and syrups for pitas. We love it drizzled over yogurt with fresh figs and on rustic bread with butter. It’s a deliciously sweet and healthy way to start your day and end a meal!
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loukoumades
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fresh green figs, yogurt, honey, walnut
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karidopita in honey syrup

Shop it!

776 DELUXE Honey & Chios Mastic: 
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igourmet.com, DeMedici, and select Whole Foods Markets

MONASTIRI thyme honey from Crete:
Titan Foods
Mediterranean Foods


ARIADNE PURE (Mellona) from Cyprus:
ariadnepure.com

​I hope you enjoyed our personal taste of honey. Read about the history of honey in our blog Honey~An Ancient Treasure. For more on the foods of Karpathos, see our blog Greek Cooking with a Karpathos Island Twist. Stay tuned for more Karpathian flavors in upcoming blogs.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly

ALERT: Special attention should be given to the fact that bee colonies are collapsing and certain bee species, like the patched bumblebee, are in danger of extinction. The recent rise in bee deaths has been linked to increased use of pesticides and insecticides in the United States. If the bees die, we eventually die. To learn more about this crisis and what you can do, visit NRDC. ​Together, we can save the bees!
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Pickling~Greek Island Style

7/19/2021

12 Comments

 

Toursi (Τουρσί) ~ Greek Pickled Vegetables

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Toursi (Τουρσί) is the Greek word for pickled vegetables and is a common, tasty way to preserve them throughout the cold winter months. The most common vegetables found in Toursi are carrots, cauliflower, string beans, red bell peppers, and green chili peppers, which are combined and pickled in a vinegar and/or brine solution. Every region in Greece has its own, unique way of making and flavoring Toursi, and so do we. In Karpathos, wild sea fennel is the main ingredient and an island favorite (and a taverna specialty~see Tavernas & Restaurants of Karpathos for a listing of the best eateries there).
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Sea Fennel or Kritamo (Κρίταμο), also known as Rock Samphire, is a green, fern-like vegetable that can be found growing on rocky Mediterranean shores where it is directly exposed to drying sun, strong winds, and the salty sea—it not only survives these extreme elements, it thrives in their presence. Sea fennel has a naturally occurring salty taste and resembles its aromatic namesake, fresh fennel, in flavor. It makes a stunning garnish and, in Karpathos, is especially enjoyed pickled.

One of our subscribers who recently vacationed in Karpathos wrote to us and shared her experience with the island’s pickled sea fennel. She mentioned how much she loved it, asked where she could find it, and wanted to get a recipe. We thought it was a great idea for a blog so everyone can enjoy.

Karpathos~Style Pickled Wild Sea Fennel (Κρίταμο Τουρσί, Kritamo Toursi)

Be sure to choose young sea fennel before it flowers. If you can’t find sea fennel in your area, substitute thinly sliced fresh fennel with the chopped fronds.

2 cups water
1 cup cider vinegar
1½ teaspoons sea salt
1 garlic clove, halved
2 small bay leaves
2 pounds wild sea fennel, rinsed
2 pre-sterilized 1-pint jars
2 lemon slices
Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving

1. Combine water, vinegar, salt, garlic, and bay leaves in a large saucepot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add sea fennel and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes (do not overcook).

2. Using a slotted spoon, transfer sea fennel, garlic and bay leaves to sterilized jars, dividing evenly. Top each with a lemon slice. Carefully pour hot vinegar mixture over each, filling within ½ inch of the top of the jars. Firmly but gently tap each jar against the counter to release any trapped air or run a knife along the inside edge to the bottom. Wipe the top of the jars dry and cover tightly with the lids. Refrigerate overnight before serving. (Can be stored in the refrigerator up to 1 month.)

3. To serve: Drizzle the chilled Toursi with olive oil for a condiment or side dish, add to salads with citrus sections, or use as a garnish for fish or meats.
Recipe by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style
 
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​I hope you enjoyed pickling with us and we welcome you to send us your requests or ideas for future Kukla's Kouzina blogs. To learn more about Karpathian cuisine, check out our blog Greek Cooking with a Karpathos Island Twist. Stay tuned for more upcoming segments on uniquely Karpathian foods and culture!

For more Karpathian/Greek recipes, check out our new cookbooks Kukla’s Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style, Meze (Appetizers & Petite Plates) and Spreads & Dips, available on Amazon. These are the first two books in a series that we have developed and we’re excited to see this dream become reality! For details about the books and us, go to our BOOKS page.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly
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Greek Cooking with a Karpathos Island Twist

7/5/2021

33 Comments

 

Karpathos~A Food Lover’s Paradise

PictureOlympos woman stuffing zucchini flowers
Our Karpathos getaway travels into the island’s kitchens this week for a look at the unique style of cooking that makes Kukla’s Kouzina tick!

Step into our kouzina and learn about what makes our cuisine so different from the other corners of Greece, and what makes it so irresistible. 

Last week you got to see the beauty of Karpathos, this week you get to taste it!  

Kalos orisate!  (kah-LOHS oh-REE-sah-teh) Welcome!

Mythological Proportions

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Karpathian cuisine is as awe-inspiring as the Titans, the elder gods who made Karpathos their home. The island's history dates as far back as 2500 B.C. and its occupation by numerous peoples and their cultures is reflected in its cuisine. This history tells the story of pieces of a puzzle that, over centuries, came together to form what is now known as Karpathian cuisine.

This cuisine's diversity is an effect of not only climate and location, but also of occupation by various civilizations recurring throughout time as a result of wars and invasions.  

Records show that Karpathos was inhabited by numerous outside cultures which began in Neolithic times with the Minoans, who introduced a variety of foods from the sea, as well as savory olives and their complex flavorful oils, herbs such as oregano, and thyme-scented honey. 

The Minoans were followed by the Mycenaeans, whose culture was rich in farm-fresh, as well as dried, fruits and vegetables, sheep and goat dairy products, game meats, chicken, celery, cardamom, mint, and fennel. Then the Phoenicians transported wine to the island’s shores. The Dorians came next with their Spartan diet of olive oil, garlic, pomegranates, figs, whole grains, apples, grapes, flax seeds, lentils, and a number of other high-nutrient staples we now refer to as superfoods. The Romans arrived with barley, millet, wheat, and cheese, all of which were infused with honey in certain recipes. The Venetians instituted pasta into the Karpathian diet, which led to the creation of pastitsio. And the language of the Ottomans inspired recipe names such as moussaka, tzatziki, giouvarlakia, keftedes, and mboureki. There was even a Genovese basil-loving pirate, Moresco, who ruled over the island! Aromas of citrus, allspice, cinnamon, and crystallized vanilla dominate Karpathian cooking, and it is unknown whether they sprouted here and were taught to others or vice versa. Tomatoes became incorporated into Greek cuisine in the late nineteenth century and were widely used in Dodecanese cooking during the Italian occupation from 1911 to 1947, and still are today. This is just one element exclusive to the nature of cooking in this area. 

The Italian occupation resulted in a marriage between the two styles of cooking, and this melding is well represented in the meals you’ll encounter on this island, like pasta with meat sauce or makarounes. Some restaurants feature both cuisines and you’ll see items like shrimp parmigiana and pizza on the menu alongside moussaka and souvlaki. 
   
These influences, combined with the island’s faithful native roots, have made Karpathos incomparable in its novel style and preparation of food, creating a culinary icon that lives only on this distinct island and is enhanced in the pages of our cookbook.

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cooking a goat in an outdoor kettle, Karpathos
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baking bread in an outdoor stone oven, Olympos

Keeping up with the Karpathians

To become truly familiar with a culture one must live with its natives, breathe the same air, and of course, sample its foods. Foods reveal a story of the people who create them—cultures of the sea have diets abundant in fish, those inland take from the earth, and their use of spices reflects the passion they happily share. On Karpathos, all these elements combine to tell the tale of a civilization with a generous lifestyle that makes every day a celebration.

The recipes born here reflect their heritage and maintain an originality that sets them apart from standard Greek cuisine. Foods also vary by location on the island, as some are extracted from the unspoiled mountain village of Olympos that remains frozen in time, others from the inland farming town of Volada. Then there's the picturesque, age-old fishing port of Finiki that can’t be beat when it comes to seafood. 

Eating on this island is truly a slice of heaven of which the myths only hint!
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fishing boat, Finiki
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fresh catch, Finiki
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A Dish by any Other Name

The differences between Karpathian cooking and mainstream Greek cuisine are apparent in a number of dishes that share a common name but actually have their own distinct food personalities. The following examples are proof positive that a rose, or dish, by any other name is just as sweet…or savory.    

Spanakopites Karpathikes  (Karpathian spinach pies)

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Savory spanakopites Karpathikes do not mimic the well-known spanakopita but exhibit their own distinctive, undeniable charm. Spice-scented homemade dough half-moons are filled with a spinach, rice, and onion mixture that is lightly flavored with lemon juice and herbs (no cheese in these, and you won’t miss it!). These individual pies are baked until risen, golden and seriously aromatic. 

On the island, especially in Olympos, baking is done in stone or brick communal ovens outside of the home. The food not only tastes better but it keeps the house cool…seriously important when it’s warm-to-hot most of the year. A classic case of If you can't stand the heat, take it out of the kitchen!

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communal outdoor brick oven, Olympos

Makarounes  (pronounced mah-ka-ROO-nes)

In the world of everyday pasta dishes, most people think of a tomato-based sauce. In Karpathos, pasta takes on a whole new meaning. Makarounes, an island specialty, is a peasant dish whose star ingredient is a homemade, finger-rolled, shell-shaped pasta (similar to cavatelli). The makarounes are cooked, then tossed with onion and garlic that were sautéed in olive oil, and topped with grated hard myzithra cheese (sheep and/or goat’s milk). Although this sounds too simple to fall into the realm of Greek cuisine, one forkful will prove that you don’t need a dozen ingredients and hours slaving over a hot stove to make a delicious Karpathian dish. Quick, easy, and entirely satisfying!
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makarounes, first scored with the tines of a fork, then rolled with fingertips.
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cooked makarounes tossed with sautéed onion and garlic, then topped with grated myzithra

Arnaki Kleftiko  (slow-baked spring lamb, pronounced ahr-NAH-kee KLEF-tee-koh)

In Greek, kleftiko means stolen. In Karpathian history, thieves (kleftes) lived hidden in the mountains and would steal a lamb or goat, then they'd slow-cook the meat (up to 24 hours) in the ground in a sealed pit so there would be no smell, no visible smoke, and no sign of a stolen animal. The meat was so tender and delicious that the recipe was passed down through the generations and was named after the thieves. In Karpathos, kleftiko is still made the old-fashioned way (isn’t that usually the best?), on the bone, marinated in garlic and lemon juice, and slow-baked in a pit-oven. Sometimes it's wrapped in parchment and baked in a clay pot.
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Left: arnaki kleftiko baked in a pit (the meat is so tender it falls off the bone). Right: kleftiko wrapped in parchment and baked in a clay pot.
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Mbaklavas Karpathikos  (Karpathian baklava)

Unlike mainland baklava, mbaklavas Karpathikos is made with an olive oil-based pastry dough that is rolled into a spiral of thin layers, then sliced, and deep fried. Once drained and cooled, the diamond-shaped, flaky slices are drenched in a fragrant, spiced honey syrup and sprinkled with walnuts. Made for special celebrations, these extraordinary treats are piled high on trays, wrapped in colorful cellophane and tied with elaborate bows. When dining on the island, you can find these at just about every restaurant and it’s the first thing on the menu at bakeries.
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Karpathian baklava
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traditional baklava
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kouloures
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psilokouloura
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sweet kouloures
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Olympos woman rolling out the dough for spanakopites
Other must-try indigenous foods you’ll find on the island include full-cream cheeses like salty almotyri (armotyri) and spiced meriari served with a variety of rustic bread loaves and kouloures (donut-shaped biscuits made with wheat, barley, or a combination of both), psilokouloura (thin, sesame-covered, olive-oil breadsticks), kouloumbotes olives, ofto (baked lamb or goat stuffed with rice), skaros yahni (baked fish) or “Karpathian fish” as the locals call it because the skaros fish can only be found in the Karpathian sea, kavroumas (strips of pig meat, similar to bacon, that are fried and served with bread), lahanopita (cabbage pie), drilla (a thick goat’s-milk sour cream), vyzanti (lamb stuffed with bulgur or rice and baked in a wood-burning oven), and hondros (meat prepared with bulgur). 

Pastries are also abundant and include xylikopites (pies made with creamed cheese, honey and sugar), sweet tourtes or sitakopita/myzithropita (mini pies or tray-sized pie prepared with locally-made sheep’s and/or goat’s-milk sitaka or myzithra cheeses), alevria cookies (the dough is kneaded in honey and butter), sisamomeli (a sesame-and-honey confection served at weddings), and poungia (Carnival spiced cheese crescents with honey).    


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Olympos baker stringing kouloures to dry after baking

Farm to Table ~ the Original Movement

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beekeeper
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Karpathian thyme honey
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fresh figs
Food in Karpathos is prepared using homegrown ingredients. It’s been that way for centuries because, as an isolated island, it’s difficult to get supplies from the mainland. There are also very few markets on the island so when ingredients are needed, the natives go to the source. 

Thyme honey comes from their bee farms and is extracted from their own honeycombs. Fruit and vegetables are grown organically. Cheese is made from the milk of their sheep and goats.  Bread is baked using their own grains that are ground in their gristmills powered by the wind.

If you’re eating in Karpathos, most of the ingredients are as local as local gets. This is the purest form of the farm-to-table movement, and it started here!
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basil
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wild artichoke
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zucchini flowers
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gristmill inside of windmill, Olympos
We hope you enjoyed our Karpathian kitchen raid. In next week's blog Tavernas & Restaurants of Karpathos, we'll take you into the best tavernas and restaurants in Karpathos where the foods we just talked about leap off the menus, and the hosts make you feel right at home! For our classic Karpathian recipe for Kritamo Toursi, check out Pickling~Greek Island Style.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi!  Good appetite!

Kelly
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Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Karpathiko Spiti (Karpathian House)

5/11/2020

6 Comments

 

A Home of Culture and Tradition

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The Karpathian House is the embodiment of the island’s folklore and customs, an all-inclusive museum of sorts that displays the art and handcrafts of Karpathos that have been passed down for centuries in the form of colorful embroidery, knitting, weaving, and woodcarving. The telling of family history through framed photographs of its peoples, past and present, are proudly displayed on walls and shelves. And we’re not just talking about one house! Many of the homes in Karpathos uphold this time-honored style that traces back to medieval times and beyond.

Although the southern Dodecanese island of Karpathos has been discovered worldwide over the last decade by tourists seeking less commercialism and more untainted culture, most of the island has remained unchanged by their presence, unlike the more renowned Greek islands, like Mykonos and Santorini. Karpathos’ claim to fame includes its exceptional landscapes and traditional architecture, influenced in style by the Aegean and Venetian characteristics of its neighboring islands—styles that interweave to create a one-of-a-kind splendor.

Olympos is the most authentic medieval village in Karpathos, well known for its period architecture, evident in its picturesque windmills, and rustic lifestyle. Geographically segregated from the rest of the island, Olympos was able to preserve its own unspoiled traditions, ironically drawing more tourists than any of the other island towns.

While simple square houses painted in bright colors traditionally make up the villages outside of Olympos, the entire island comes together when it comes to maintaining a Karpathian House. This is a beloved constant that exists throughout Karpathos, regardless of location.
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To this day, Karpathos citizens’ devotion to preserving their ancient customs and rich traditions has made this island truly remarkable, allowing the visitor to step through its gates and become one of the natives. What better place to immerse oneself in that culture than in the home, the heart of civilization.

Inside the Karpathiko Spiti (Καρπάϑικο Σπίτι)

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A cluster of three buildings make up an authentic Karpathian House: the main house, a smaller guest house, and an outdoor oven or bakery.

The center of the main house is the ground floor which is separated into two sections: the patos (the lower living area), and, opposite from the house entrance, the raised soufas (traditional bed) with the mousandra (guest room/loft) and the panosoufi (the upper bed for a guest in the mousandra). This could be where the "loft" originated!

PicturePanga (left in white), side view of panosoufi, pebble floor
A key furniture component of the house is the panga (a type of couch or bench) next to the soufas with built-in cabinets used for storing fruit and food items. 

Many of the houses have floors composed of white, pink, and black pebbles arranged in a decorative pattern, and wooden rafters on the ceiling. 

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Each house is decorated with hand-embroidered quilts, runners, and handkerchiefs. Professional wood carvers, basket artists, and fabric weavers follow the footsteps of old-world artisans to create the picture frames, pottery, ornately painted clay plates that line the intricately hand-carved shelving, and jugs depicting time-honored designs. 

The woodwork is prominently on display in the soufas, which is a couple of steps up from the main floor and preceded by a beautifully crafted wood frame. Climb another two steps and you have the mousandra and the panosoufi. On the east side of the house is the skillfully carved wooden family altar, the home’s all-important spiritual hub. 

PictureIrene's House, Olympos, Karpathos: soufas (left to center) and panosoufi (right)
Irene's House in Olympos is a more typical Karpathian house, with minimal decoration in order to showcase the detail in the stairs and woodwork, and it’s available for rent. What better way to soak up the island’s wonderful lifestyle than to spend your vacation in an authentic Karpathiko Spiti? For more information on Irene’s House, visit www.ireneshouse.com.


The kellos (kitchen) in the Karpathian House—complete with a fireplace and anakapnea (chimney)—is where the stovetop cooking happens (think avgolemono soup, skordalia, stifado, and dolmades). This is the core of daily family life, as it is in most modern homes…hey, we all love to eat and there’s no better place to be to steal a taste before dinner.   

The outdoor oven keeps the heat out of the main house in the hot summer months, and it’s also used by neighboring families. This is where the bread, kouloures, and spanakopites are made. Can you smell them? Yum!
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baking bread
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kouloures
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spanakopites

Krevati

This is the term used on the islands to describe the preparation of a wedding, in particular the couple’s new home, with each island imparting slight nuances in the details of this custom. 

Typically the night before a couple gets married in Karpathos, the family is invited to the newlyweds’ house for a "krevati" where they decorate the dwelling and their new bed to make it festive for the couple’s arrival. 

The elaborate preparation comes in the form of a procession as goods are carried through the village and up to the house. It is adorned with beautiful bedspreads and fabrics that were embroidered, crocheted, and knitted after the engagement was announced. 

A large wooden pillar in the center of the house supports the roof beam, symbolizing the support of the family. This pillar is decked out with silk fabrics embellished with colorful needlework for the wedding (as is the bride) and other special celebrations—this is every Karpathian’s opportunity to take home-décor to the extreme, representing their richness in hospitality. 

Sumptuous island dishes, exotic beverages, and delectable pastries fill the dinner menus that extend that richness to guests as they gather for the joyous occasion.
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krevati procession on their way to decorate
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needlework presented to the bride-to-be
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The most impressive building in Karpathos is the Province House, also known as Eparxeio (Επαρχείο). Located in the capital, Pigadia, on the west end of Pigadia Port, Province House blends the traditional and modern styles of the island’s architecture. Open to the public, the three-story pale yellow and blue building has stone walls, a clock tower on the top floor, and information on the resident Mediterranean seal in one section of the house. 

Many of the island’s hotels are decorated in the Karpathos-House style to give their guests a feel for the tradition that is held in such high regard here.

The remarkable dedication of the Karpathian people to their traditions, folklore, and customs is just one of the many elements that makes this island a true gem in the Aegean.    

I hope you enjoyed your visit to the Karpathian House. Stay tuned for more culture, food, and fun from this, our favorite island in upcoming blogs. To learn more about our wedding customs, check out our blog The Wedding Season~Karpathos Style. 

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly

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Copyright © 2013-2021 Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    

Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Marriage Traditions in Karpathos

5/4/2020

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Springtime Nuptials

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​As tree branches fill with colorful blooms of white, coral, and fuchsia, and flowers hail the warm sun, a time of renewal and rebirth reemerges, giving us hope for new beginnings. It’s only natural that most weddings would commence at this time and continue through the warm months ahead.
 
In Karpathos, wedding preparations are not only for the rejoicing of the natives’ nuptials, but also for the gathering of the prodigal sons and daughters who return to their ancestral home to take part in the island’s customs and traditions with family. The breathtaking scenic backdrop and lush (yet affordable) reception make attending a glorious Greek-island destination wedding an undeniable vacation bonus.

Honeymoon Krevati

Krevati (κρεβάτι, pronounced kreh-VAH-tee) means “bed” in Greek, but it’s also the term used on the southern Greek islands to describe the preparation of a wedding, in particular the couple’s new home (including the bed), with each island imparting slight nuances in the details of this custom. 
 
Typically, the night before a couple gets married in Karpathos, the family is invited to the newlyweds’ house for a "krevati" where they decorate the dwelling and their new bed to make it festive for the couple’s arrival.

The elaborate preparation comes in the form of a procession as goods are carried through the village and up to the house. It is adorned with beautiful bedspreads and fabrics that were embroidered, crocheted, and knitted by grandmothers (γιαγιάδες, yiayiades), mom’s (μητέρες, miteres), aunts (θείες, thies), and cousins (ξαδέλφια, ksadelfia) after the engagement was announced.

A traditional large wooden pillar in the center of the house supports the roof beam, symbolizing the support of the family. This pillar is decked out with silk fabrics embellished with colorful needlework for the wedding (as is the bride) and other special celebrations—this is every Karpathian’s opportunity to take home-décor to the extreme, representing their richness in hospitality.

​Sumptuous island dishes, exotic beverages, and delectable pastries fill the dinner menus that extend that richness to the colorfully-adorned guests as they gather for this joyous decorating occasion.
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Karpathiko Spiti (Karpathian House)~completed krevati

Open Invitation

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traditional Karpathian bride
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traditional Greek island brides
One memorable summer, we experienced that celebratory lifestyle firsthand while vacationing in Karpathos with our mom. As we gathered for breakfast one morning, our cousins told us to get ready, we were going to a wedding. We turned to our mom and the look on our faces pretty much said it all. We weren’t invited and we didn’t know the people getting married, so are we crashing the wedding? She said that, first, we are cousins to the bride and groom (as we were to most of the island…surprise, surprise!), and second, a wedding in Karpathos means an open invitation to everyone on the island.

Weddings are a particularly festive island event in Karpathos where everyone, including visitors, is invited to partake not only in the couple’s joyous ceremony but also in the food event to follow, seating up to 900 people in a barn-like structure standing in as a hall.
 
The bride wore the traditional embellished Karpathian dress, and crowns were exchanged during the ceremony. Immediately following the mass, the close family of the couple pinned large gold pieces on the lapel of the groom’s jacket and on a bib worn over the bride’s gown. This centuries-old custom of giving gold is meant to sustain the couple in times of financial hardship (gold pieces such as these were saved by our grandmother and were used to feed the family during the Great Depression and WW2).
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​After the church service, it was time to eat. We never saw anything like this. People lined up outside and were ushered into the hall in large groups for the wedding meal. When one group finished, the next came in to eat. This continued until everyone (yes, all 900) dined…and dined well!
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​The tables were set with individual servings of sisamomelo / sousamomelo (a sesame-and-honey confection served at weddings, symbolizing fertility and sweetness), and baskets of peanuts, candy, and, our favorite, psilokouloura (thin, sesame-covered, olive-oil breadsticks)—seriously irresistible!

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psilokouloura
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Karpathian baklava
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Friends and family joined in to prepare the feast—caterers were replaced by cousins in aprons, and it was no surprise to find Uncle Demetri pouring the wine! Lemon-oregano marinated lamb was roasted outdoors on a spit, trays of vegetable-laden moussaka and béchamel-layered pastitsio were passed around, and delicate heart-shaped powdered-sugar-coated shortbread cookies, kourambiedes, were shared and devoured. Also offered was this island’s most excellent version of baklava. Unlike mainland baklava, Mbaklavas Karpathikos (Karpathian baklava) is made with an olive oil-based pastry dough that is rolled into a spiral of thin layers, then sliced, and deep fried. Once drained and cooled, the diamond-shaped, flaky slices are drenched in a fragrant, spiced honey syrup and sprinkled with walnuts. Made for special celebrations such as this, these extraordinary treats are piled high on trays, wrapped in colorful cellophane, and tied with elaborate bows.

After the eating came the mantinades (μαντινάδες), each a melding of folk song and rhymes. Mantinades are the true spirit of the people of Karpathos, written by the parents and close family of the bride and groom. These lyrical poems, read by the authors, contain heartfelt wishes and blessings for the couple, as well as reflect on their lives as children, while conveying the love felt for each of them. This is all followed by tears of joy, hugs, and the final phase of the evening, dancing!

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As the area was cleared to make room, local musicians on the lyra (a fiddle-like instrument), tsambouna (bagpipe), and laouto (similar to a bouzouki) took their places in the center of the floor. With everyone joining in, music for the sousta, kalamatiano, and hasapiko dances carried the festivities into the wee hours of the morning while the bride and groom snuck off to their elaborately-decorated krevati.
I hope you enjoyed this behind-the-scenes look at Karpathian wedding traditions and how it all comes together to create a truly unique and loving occasion. Check out our blog Karpathiko Spiti (Karpathian House) to learn more about our lifestyle customs.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.
 
Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!
 
Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!
 
Kelly
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​Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    
 
Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Growing Up In Kukla’s Kouzina

8/26/2019

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ong ago in a kouzina far, far away, two little girls learned the art of Greek cooking and baking from the master, their mom, Mary (a.k.a. Kukla).    

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Okay, so it wasn’t that long ago and our kouzina (kitchen) was in Brooklyn Heights, so maybe not that far away, but my sister Joanne and I did start our kitchen training at a very young age and there wasn’t one thing our mom didn’t know how to cook when it came to Greek and Karpathian food.

 
Join us for this very special blog on our Kukla, growing up in her kouzina, and her unparalleled lessons that put us on the road to writing our cookbook series. 

This is where it all began!
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Cooking with Kukla  

Our earliest memory of cooking, or in this case baking, was at the ages of four and five when our mom sat us down on a frosty December morning to make our Christmas cookies. But these weren’t just any cookies, they were Greek, which translated into us learning techniques such as rolling, filling, and decorating—not just for one but three different kinds of cookies, Melomakarona/Finikia, Kourambiedes, and Koulourakia. And we weren’t making just a few dozen, it was 200 of each kind. 

These cookies were so special that our mom would package them up with pretty silk bows and ornaments and give them as Christmas gifts to all of her friends and co-workers every year…they were eagerly anticipated and seriously appreciated. 

By the time we were in high school we realized why she got us started so young, she needed the help!


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Melomakarona/Finikia (dark with nuts), Kourambiedes (white-powdered sugar), and Koulourakia (twists with sesame)
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Kukla with her decorated confections for a cousin's wedding.
The first cookie we learned how to make was Koulourakia. The idea was to roll out each piece of dough into a perfect rope before twisting it. In the beginning we repeatedly asked Mom “how come we can’t do it?”, frustrated because her ropes always looked so flawless and ours were skinny on one side and lumpy in the middle. 

She was so patient with us and explained that this dough needs to be worked well (thoroughly kneaded) before rolling, and we had to start at the center of the rope, rolling it gently out to the ends. She said the more we practice and get a feel for the dough, the better our cookies will look and the easier it will get. This is how she learned from her mom. 
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PictureBusy Bee Diner: Uncles George & Bill
While we rolled and shaped and twisted, Mom shared stories about her family growing up in West Virginia and our papou (grandfather) working in the coal mines. Our yiayia (grandmother) would bribe the foreman with Greek food so he wouldn’t send Papou into the dangerous section of the mine. When she saved enough of Papou’s money, they opened the Busy Bee Diner and closed the coal-mine chapter, and the worry that went with it. Our uncles (who later opened a diner of their own in NYC’s Little Italy) teased her saying that she didn’t know how to cook American food.   She told them that if she could cook Greek, she could cook anything. Her chili, roast turkey, and brisket were just a few of the items on the menu (along with her Spanakopita, Souvlaki, and Moussaka) that made the Busy Bee a success.

It was during this shared time with Mom in our kitchen that we learned about more than just how to make cookies. We learned about our heritage and customs, as well as our grandparents humble beginnings. Our mom was laying down a foundation that we could build on. 
When Mom felt that we put enough time into making the Koulourakia, she gave us each a piece of dough to roll out and cut into Christmas shapes like trees, camels, bells, and stars…this was the part we loved! We’d sprinkle our cookies with red and green sugar and bake them alongside our mom’s twists. The smell coming from the oven was heaven and it ushered in the holiday season. 

Today we’re experts at making Koulourakia, and all of Mom's cookies—yes, practice does make perfect—and we taught my niece Jackie the same way our mom taught us. We knock out 600 cookies in a two-day marathon and Jackie is always eager to get started. In fact, Jackie has been our official sugar-duster and nut-sprinkler since she was four—and she gets her own piece of dough to cut out and decorate just like we did. Plus we never have to worry about over-baking—from the moment Jackie could speak she’s been shouting out “COOKIES!” whenever the oven timer goes off…just in case we didn’t hear it. 
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Baking Bread in our Kouzina

When we were about six, our aunt Frances was baking bread, Yiayia’s recipe for Christopsomo (Christ’s Bread), and as soon as she took it out of the oven we were begging for a taste. She told us that she couldn’t cut the bread until it cooled a bit, otherwise it would be too wet on the inside. Each time she baked, we asked and got the same response. 

One night, while the 15-inch round loaf was cooling, the aroma was so intense that we just couldn’t wait. We devised a plan. While our mom and aunt were busy in the living room, we went into the kitchen and poked a couple of holes in the side of the loaf and pulled out some of the crumb. We turned the bread so our handiwork was hidden, ate our booty, and then went to watch TV. 

Later on we overheard our aunt telling Mom that she thought we had mice…actually two mice that got into the bread via perfectly round holes. The jig was up…we were disappointed to discover that we weren’t as clever as we thought! 
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Aunt Frances (Thia) baking in our kouzina
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(left to right) Aunt Frances, Kelly & Joanne
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The art of bread making so intrigued me that Aunt Frances taught me how to make Christopsomo when I was 10 years old and I’ve been baking it ever since. 

Passing on the bread-making tradition must be an aunt-niece thing because I introduced it to Jackie when she was two-and-a-half—we were speechless when we saw her instinctively kneading it like her grandma Mary. It's definitely in the genes!

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(left to right) Kelly & Jackie
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While I was busy making bread, Joanne was helping Mom make Stuffed Tomatoes and Peppers. She remembers Mom telling her that she had to break up the ground beef for the filling with the back of a wooden spoon (Yiayia’s spoon actually), when browning it, until the texture was really fine…no lumps allowed! I still have that spoon and use it every time I brown ground beef. That was the first step in making a filling that had the perfect consistency. This technique was the basis for many of Mom’s recipes, including her meat sauce, Moussaka, Pastitsio, and so much more. Once you mastered it, you were ready to make it all!

Friday Night Grocery Run 

TGIF meant more to us than just the end of the school week. Friday was the day Mom would come home with bags of gourmet goodies from 9th Avenue (Hell’s Kitchen) in Manhattan. 

After work she’d head over to Esposito’s for the finest meats, including ground beef, thick-cut pork chops, shell steaks, calf's liver, chicken, and cold cuts.

Then she was off to International Grocery for feta, kasseri, olives, dried oregano on the stem, and all foods Greek (the Karamouzis brothers have owned the market for decades and still run it). 

Finally she checked out who had the freshest fish and picked out artisan bread from the local bakery. 
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Esposito's owner and our favorite butcher Robert (Bobby)
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Karamouzis brothers at International Grocery

Carrying bags weighing about 50 pounds in each hand (we joked with her, in a Greek accent,  that she was “strong like bull!”), she braved the subway and headed home. Joanne and I waited for Mom on the stoop of our brownstone and ran to her as soon as we spotted her coming down our block. We were so happy she was home and she was visibly thrilled to see us with hugs and kisses all around. 

Nights following a 9th-Avenue run meant we were having fresh ham-and-feta sandwiches with lettuce and tomato, all the ingredients from the treasures found in Mom’s shopping bags. She used to ask us not to tell anyone we were eating sandwiches for dinner, which we couldn’t understand because we thought this was the best meal ever!

Entertaining at Kukla's

When it came to entertaining, be it Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas, birthdays, or a dinner party, Mom was busily preparing, running back and forth between the kitchen and dining room, and making sure her guests had everything they needed. She was always the last one to sit down at the table and she encouraged everyone to start eating without her so the food wouldn’t get cold. 

For Mom it was about being on the serving end and creating a memorable evening. Her guests often told her that it was like going to a five-star restaurant. 

One night it was fruit salad flambé served as a first course—Mom always stressed that just because you’re serving a salad doesn’t mean it has to be ordinary, an opinion clearly demonstrated in her fish-shaped tuna salad complete with sliced-carrot scales and olive eyes. Another occasion it was shrimp cocktail arranged in scooped out pineapple halves (recipe in our Meze cookbook). 

Mom taught us that our focus should always be on great cuisine and its superb presentation—every day was a celebration of life and food!

The example she set took root when we were about 10 years old and decided to surprise Mom with an exotic meal when she came home from work, giving her a break from cooking that night. It was a Greek Luau…yes, I said “Greek”! Is there any other kind?
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Joanne & Mom at Thanksgiving
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Mom lighting the fruit salad flambé
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Mom filling pineapples with shrimp cocktail
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We prepared our mom’s lemon-chicken-and-potatoes recipe (using Cornish hens) and roasted the meal in an oven bag. While that was cooking, we cut the tops off of three pineapples and scooped out the insides (what can I say, we had a thing for pineapples). We filled the pineapples with fruit juice and topped each with a cherry-and-pineapple-skewered cocktail umbrella. We cut up the rest of the pineapple, combined it with other fruit, and served it for dessert. There was even a Greek salad. We spread out a blanket on our kitchen floor and set it with the pineapple drinks, tropical flowers, paper plates, napkins, and plastic utensils (so there would be no dish washing that night either). 

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As soon as we heard her coming up the stairs we turned down the lights and turned up the Hawaiian music to set the mood. We greeted her with a lei that matched the ones we were wearing and when she saw the spread she was beyond surprised, she was deeply touched and so proud of us. Not only did her young girls prepare dinner, it was an elaborate, creative effort that was inspired by our love for her and the standard she set for us. Though she wasn’t the type to eat on the floor, she did it because we went to all the trouble and she didn’t want us to feel bad. She quickly got over the seating arrangements and we had the best time. Each course was an “OMG, look at what you did” moment for her. We ate, we laughed, and we made a very special memory that warmed all of our hearts for years to come and especially today when those memories are so precious.

PictureKukla with her girls, Joanne & Kelly
We lived in a home abundant in love, laughter, and the familiar smell of something delicious being prepared in the kitchen. As tired as Mom was when she got home from work, cooking was never a chore and dinner was always extraordinary. Eating well was her first priority for us and food was something she didn’t skimp on. She was our hero and her lessons, and love, were invaluable. 

Having Kukla as our mom?...Now that was priceless!

I hope you enjoyed growing up with us in our remarkable kouzina. For more photos of us, Kukla, and our next generation, visit our GALLERY page. I’ll be sharing more of our kouzina lessons with you in upcoming blogs, so check back to see what’s cookin’ at Kukla’s.

Our new cookbooks Kukla’s Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style, Meze (Appetizers & Petite Plates) and Spreads & Dips mark over 20 years since we started this food journey with Kukla and are available on Amazon. These are the first in a series that we have developed and we’re excited to see this dream become reality! For details about the books and us, go to our BOOKS page.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly
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Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    

Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Honey~An Ancient Treasure (part 2)

8/5/2019

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Welcome back for part 2 of our honey blog! In Honey~An Ancient Treasure (part 1) we talked about honey's history and its value beyond the foodie category. This week we'll share our own sweet experiences in Karpathos, tell you about our favorite honeys (along with recipes), plus where you can buy them. 

Hold onto your appetite, this is going to be a tasty ride!

Our Taste of Sweet Karpathos Nectar

My sister Joanne went to Karpathos a few years ago and told our cousin’s husband, Vangeli (Βαγγέλη), that she wanted to see where and how their honey was made. He brought her to this remote place in the mountains (vouna, βουνά) and, as luck would have it, when they arrived, so did the bee harvesters. 

They removed the honeycombs from their truck, with a few bees still attached, and brought them into a tiny structure. They began by scraping off some of the honey from the combs into vats (Joanne guessed that it was the excess) and then placed the combs in huge drums that spin the honey out of them. 

One of the men gave her a piece of honeycomb to try it. This was her first time eating raw honey off a comb so she asked him “how do you eat it.” They all told her to put the comb in her mouth and treat it like gum. So here goes, she thought, and dove in. The honey oozed out and the comb was like wax (which you spit out when you’re done). She beamed “It was the most delectable honey I had ever tasted. Light, airy, not sugary sweet like the ones you buy in the supermarket.” 

Her husband, Vinnie, wouldn't try it (not the adventurous type!) because he thought they would get botulism (which didn't happen). 

Their daughter Jackie, who was only 4½ at the time, didn't want to chew the wax so she hesitantly and skeptically put some honey on her tongue and a smile bloomed from ear to ear…an undeniable stamp of approval. “It was sweet, fresh, and warm,” she said, “a one-of-a-kind honey.”    
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Joanne, Vangeli, and little Jackie: finger-lickin' good!
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honey harvesters getting ready to work
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the honeycomb
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scraping the excess honey off the comb
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drum (in rear, left side)
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a taste of honey on the comb
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After getting a taste of what real honey should taste like, Vangeli took Joanne, Jackie, and Vinnie around the seaside town of Pigadia, popping in and out of shops and introducing them around. Their journey of varying landscapes, Karpathian foodie culture, and meeting the natives (95 percent of which turned out to be cousins in one form or another), was anything but boring. 

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“We were walking in the town and Vangeli specifically wanted us to go into what was like this general [food] store and behold another cousin,” Joanne shared, thinking that they seemed to be darting out of every corner. If you wanted to avoid them, which luckily she didn’t, you’d have to get off the island (but even then there were no guarantees). “We talked for a bit while Vinnie perused the shop,” she continued, “and he came upon a large can of thyme honey that said ‘Made in Olympos’ (a mountain village in Karpathos) with the name George Halkias on the label. Since our grandfather’s side of the family was named Halkias and most of the cousins we met were a Halkias, immediately we both think, Hey, we’re related to him!...our uncle was even named George Halkias. So I asked Vangeli about this ‘relative’ and his astounding, nonchalant reply was "Oh no, no, we aren't related to him." This, after an entire day of finding cousins in every crevice, I thought, how is it possible that we are on the same Island where our grandparents are from, and he’s named Halkias, and we aren't related?? Well, we just weren't, or so he said…then we figured maybe the name Halkias was like Jones or Smith here. We concluded there must have been a bit if inbreeding going on, and at sometime, somewhere, on someone’s family tree we are related.” 

After all this commotion that started over a can of honey, the shop owner-cousin gave them the honey as a gift to take home. Sweet! Joanne shared the honey with me when she returned and it was the best I had ever tasted…I only wish I were there to taste it fresh off the honeycomb!

Show Me the Honey!

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Karpathian honey is not widely exported but a close second is thyme honey from Crete, which is available in Greek grocery stores and Mediterranean shops, as well as online. Our favorite is honey with mastic from 776 Deluxe Foods, flavored with a drop of masticha oil extracted from the sap of the mastic tree. The aroma has an herbal-pine aroma that makes this luscious one-of-a-kind honey lovely on its own, or add to lemonade, ice cream, or drizzle over fresh figs for a pop of Greek flavor! Another favorite is Cretan Monastiri honey, a pure "anthomelo" (ανθόμελο) that is produced from the nectar of flowers located in remotely populated areas on the island. Monastiri beekeepers position their hives on the rocky, windswept hills of the island, as they have for 3,000 years. The honey is harvested, aged, filtered, and cleared naturally, without the use of any preservatives. The resulting honey embodies a subtle thyme aroma and an intense floral aftertaste, perfect in teas, over yogurt, and on toast, as well as for cooking.

This honey is rich in enzymes that relieve inflammation and is hailed as an excellent source of energy for athletes, children (not to be given to children under the age of 12 months), and pregnant women. It's also good for digestion and is renowned for its antimicrobial properties.

Monastiri honey is minimally processed so it crystallizes naturally. To return a honey to its liquid form, gently heat it by placing the opened jar in a pan of hot water over low heat just until the crystals liquefy, 10 to 15 minutes, being careful not to overheat. It should be stored at room temperature (not refrigerated) away from sunlight and heat. 

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The nearby island of Cyprus is leading the procession of raw honey and honey spreads with Ariadne Pure (known as Mellona in Cyprus). Their boutique collection, including an organic oak-tree honey, uses only raw honey and one natural local ingredient for each spread. All display a smooth, creamy texture, genuine flavor, and aroma. It begins with their original Raw Honey, the base for the other varieties, which include Grape Syrup (with grape must), chocolate-like Carob (with pure carob syrup), Almonds, Hazelnuts, and Peanuts. These spreads are wonderful on toast or stirred into milk or cereal for breakfast. They can be added to salad dressings, fruit, tea, or served over ice cream. The spreads can also replace sugar when baking, and make the perfect glaze for poultry, fowl or pork (a chef’s secret instant weapon!). 

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Honey Glazed Gorgonzola-Stuffed Figs with Pancetta

Serves 4
Serving size: 2 figs

8 slices pancetta, or thick-cut bacon
8 fresh figs
6 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
4 ounces Ariadne Pure Raw
   (Mellona) Honey

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Arrange pancetta on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until it just starts to brown but is still flexible (do NOT overbake), about 5 minutes. Transfer pancetta to a paper towel-lined plate and let cool slightly. Drain excess drippings from baking sheet but do not wash.

2. While the pancetta is baking, trim the stem of each fig and cut an “X” into the top, slicing ¾ of the way down, keeping the base of the figs intact. Gently open the figs and stuff each with cheese. Reshape figs and wrap with pancetta, sealing in the cheese. Secure the pancetta to each fig by pushing a toothpick into the pancetta outer loose end and through the other side of the fig.

3. Warm the honey spread and coat the outside of the wrapped figs. 

4. Place figs 1 inch apart, stem end up, on the baking sheet and bake until the pancetta is golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove toothpicks and transfer figs to serving plates. Serve warm with a light salad, if desired. 

© Recipe by Chef Chris Smith, created for the Cyprus Embassy Trade Commission 

Some of the popular Karpathian and Greek dishes that prominently feature honey are Sisamomelo (a sesame-honey paste served at weddings), Loukoumades, Honey Cake, Melomakarona, and syrups for pitas. We love it drizzled over yogurt with fresh figs and on rustic bread with butter. It’s a deliciously sweet and healthy way to start your day and end a meal!
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loukoumades
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melomakarona / finikia
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Greek yogurt, fresh figs, honey


shop

776 DELUXE Honey & Chios Mastic: igourmet.com

MONASTIRI honey from Crete:
   Titan Foods
   Mediterranean Foods (2 locations in Astoria, NY), 22-78 35th Street (718-721-0266) 
      and 30-12 34th Street (718-728-6166)

ARIADNE PURE (Mellona) Honey from Cyprus: ariadnepure.com 

​I hope you enjoyed our personal taste of honey. Here's the link to Honey~An Ancient Treasure (part 1) in case you missed it. For more on the foods of Karpathos, see our blog Greek Cooking with a Karpathos Island Twist. Stay tuned for more Karpathian flavors in upcoming blogs.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!

Kelly
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Copyright © 2013-2019 Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    

Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Honey~An Ancient Treasure (part 1)

7/29/2019

4 Comments

 

The Honey Age

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Honey (meli, μέλι), an essential ingredient in most Greek and Karpathian confections, is the oldest sweet known to exist. It has been written about in Greek mythology, it has played a part in spiritual offerings, and it made history after being discovered in the most unexpected places. 

Here are some fun facts to give you a taste of the important role honey has played in civilization:

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· Greek mythology plays it up as Ambrosia, the food of the Gods of Olympus, and Eros (Cupid) dipped his arrows into honey before shooting them. I guess that’s where the term “sweetheart” originated. Over 3,000 years ago, the faithful offered it as a gift to the gods in the form of honey cakes. 

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· In Karpathos, cheese pastries have been infused with honey for thousands of years. In the fifth century BC, Euripides described them as being "steeped most thoroughly in the rich honey of the golden bee." 

· Prehistoric Greece (Crete and Mycenae) is where the art of beekeeping (apiculture) began. 
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· Honey is the only food that will never spoil—a fact demonstrated when Egyptian tombs dating back about 4,000 years were found to contain fresh edible honey in sealed containers. 

· From the inception of the written word, this nectar has garnered praise.
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· A 15,000-year-old cave painting discovered in Spain in the early 1900’s depicts man’s honey-hunting fascination as he gathered it from hives high up on a cliff wall.

· The earliest known fossil evidence of the honey bee (melisa, μέλισσα) dates back about 35 million years. 

This is a species that knows how to do one thing really well and proves that (in this case at least) going into the family business is sweet! 

Bee Well

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Throughout history, honey has been valued for more than just sweetening. For thousands of years it has been used as a therapeutic remedy for health issues. Greeks discovered honey’s medicinal value as containing antibacterial, antiviral, and antifungal elements.

The ancient healers also recognized honey for its antioxidant properties in fighting disease, including cancer. It has been used for thousands of years as a treatment for sore throats and coughs (it’s a natural expectorant), and according to recent research, may in fact be more effective than some OTC medicines. Combine honey with lemon juice and heat until warm, then consume slowly to coat the throat and ease discomfort. Honey can also be used as an effective antimicrobial agent to treat minor burns, cuts, and other bacterial infections. 

"Honey and pollen cause warmth, clean sores and ulcers, 
soften hard ulcers of the lips, heal carbuncles and running sores."
~Hippocrates
(Greek physician who lived to the ripe youthful age of 115, c. 460-375 BC)

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Aristotle, a Greek philosopher and student of Socrates, believed that honey prolonged life. 

Built in the 4th century BC, the ancient healing spa Asklepieion (Ἀσκληπιεῖον), named after the god of healing and medicine, Aesculapius, boasted a honey therapy that was renowned throughout all of the Mediterranean. 

"The secret of my health is applying honey inside, and oil outside."
~Democritus
(Greek philosopher who lived to the age of 109, c. 460-370 BC)

Bee My Honey

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The color of honey comes from the nectar’s source, and the darker the color, the more intense the flavor. Today the varieties of honey available are seemingly endless. Hundreds crowd the international marketplace, the most common being clover, orange blossom, and sage. Regional honey producers offer limited quantities from blossoms like thyme, lavender, linden, and raspberry. 

You can find honey in three basic forms: comb honey (with the liquid still in the comb), chunk-style honey (honey with pieces of comb in the jar), and liquid honey (extracted from the comb and often pasteurized to prevent crystallization). Pasteurizing changes the delicate flavor of the honey but isn’t needed to preserve it…keep in mind that crystallization is not a bad thing (for info on re-liquefying honey, check next week's part 2 of our honey blog). Commercial honeys can be overly processed and may contain sugar, completely altering the taste of something that needs no alteration. 

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The best honey in Greece comes from thyme (thymari, θυμάρι, pronounced thee-MAH-ree) and is considered to be the finest honey in the world. 

In Karpathos, it comes from family-owned bee farms and is extracted from their own honeycombs. Greek honey is especially high in vitamins, enzymes, amino acids, and minerals.       

I hope you enjoyed getting to know one of our favorite things, honey. Don't miss next week's Honey~An Ancient Treasure (part 2) where we'll share our own sweet experiences in Karpathos and tell you about our favorite honeys available outside of our island (shopping info & recipes included!).

For more Karpathian/Greek recipes, check out our new cookbooks Kukla’s Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style, Meze (Appetizers & Petite Plates) and Spreads & Dips, available on Amazon. These are the first two books in a series that we have developed and we’re excited to see this dream become reality! For details about the books and us, go to our BOOKS page.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi!  Good appetite!

Kelly

ALERT: Special attention should be given to the fact that bee colonies are collapsing and certain bee species, like the patched bumblebee, are in danger of extinction. The recent rise in bee deaths has been linked to increased use of pesticides and insecticides in the United States. If the bees die, we eventually die. To learn more about this crisis and what you can do, visit NRDC. ​Together, we can save the bees!
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Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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