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​Lenten Wine Koulourakia

4/6/2020

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These delectable koulourakia made with wine, olive oil, and spices are the perfect go-to when you want something subtly sweet during this long fasting period, and for you dunkers out there (that includes us!), they pair exceptionally well with coffee or tea. We’ve taken a traditional recipe and adapted it to vegan standards…and then we went a little overboard and added a chocolate-stripe variation, because we all need a little extra comfort sometimes. Make them with your kids, parents, siblings, and friends and share the beautiful love of baking up some sweet memories together!

Koulourakia with Wine (κουλουράκια με κρασί) / Krasokoulourakia (κρασοκουλουράκια)

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koulourakia twists with white wine
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koulourakia S-shape with red wine
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koulourakia with dark red wine & oil
​Simple, quick, flavorful, and fun are the baking orders of the day. These crisp-on-the-outside, tender-on-the-inside cookies will have you asking if they’re really Lenten. They are, and, you’re welcome!
 
Kouzina Tip: The dough can be refrigerated up to 2 weeks, so make it ahead to bake later or prepare the dough, bake half, and save the rest for another time.
 
PREP TIME: 15 minutes plus standing
BAKING TIME: about 20 minutes per batch
MAKES: 20 to 30 cookies (depending on the shape/size you make)
 
4 cups all-purpose flour, divided
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2/3 cup sugar
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons cardamom
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
Zest of 1 orange
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/3 cup Greek sweet red wine (like Mavrodaphne) for dark cookies or Greek sweet white wine for light cookies (the color of the baked cookies will depend on the color of the wine and olive oil, see photos above)
Toasted sesame seeds (optional)
 
1. In a large bowl, sift together 3 1/2 cups flour and the baking powder; make a well in center. To the well, add the olive oil and sugar and whisk to combine. Whisk in the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and zest. With orange juice in a cup, stir in the baking soda until dissolved and foaming; pour into well and whisk into the oil mixture. Whisk in the wine until of the ingredients in the well are combined. Gradually stir in the surrounding flour until all is incorporated. Kneed the dough just until the dough is smooth, soft, and not sticky (don’t over handle the dough). If sticky, gradually kneed in just enough of the remaining 1/2 cup flour until dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl and can be rolled out into a smooth rope shape.
 
2. Cover the dough with a clean dry kitchen towel and let rest 20 minutes. (Can be made ahead. After resting, wrap dough tightly in plastic wrap and seal in a resealable plastic storage bag, pressing out air, and refrigerate up to 2 weeks. Let stand at room temperature until softened enough to roll before continuing with recipe, 30 minutes to 1 hour.)
 
3. Line 2 large heavy-duty rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or lightly grease them with vegetable shortening. Arrange 2 racks in lower and upper thirds of oven. Heat oven to 350°F.
 
4. Briefly kneed dough before shaping. (If dough becomes oily at any time while making the cookies, kneed until oil is absorbed, then continue rolling out cookies.)
For a twist shape: Roll about 1 tablespoon of dough into a 4- to 5-inch rope, fold in half, and twist.
For S shape: Roll about 1 tablespoon of dough into a 5-inch rope, roll one end to the middle and roll the other end in the opposite direction to the middle.
 
5. Place cookies 1-inch apart on prepared baking sheet. Lightly brush with water and sprinkle with sesame, if desired. Bake about 20 minutes (add 5 to 10 minutes for larger/thicker cookies), switching baking sheets up and down halfway through, until browned. Transfer to wire racks and cool completely. Store cookies in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 weeks.
​

Cocoa & Cream Wine Koulourakia

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​For these Lenten black-and-white koulourakia twists, we’re basically dividing the Koulourakia with Wine ingredients in half and adding cocoa powder to the dry flour mixture for the chocolate dough (and making minor adjustments to the spices). Set up two sets of bowls and cups so you can measure out ingredients and make the two doughs simultaneously.
 
Kouzina Tip: The dough can be refrigerated up to 2 weeks, so make it ahead to bake later or prepare the dough, bake half, and save the rest for another time.
 
PREP TIME: 15 minutes plus standing
BAKING TIME: about 20 minutes per batch
MAKES: about 30 cookies
 
WHITE-WINE DOUGH
2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon cardamom
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
Zest of 1/2 orange
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons Greek sweet white wine
*
CHOCOLATE DOUGH
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup sugar
2 teaspoons cinnamon
Zest of 1/2 orange
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons Greek sweet red wine (like Mavrodaphne) for dark cookies or Greek sweet while wine for lighter cookies (the color of the chocolate part of the cookie will depend on the color of the wine and olive oil)
 
1. Make White Dough: In a medium bowl, sift together 1 3/4 cups flour and the baking powder; make a well in center. To the well, add the olive oil and sugar and whisk to combine. Whisk in the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, and zest. With orange juice in a cup, stir in the baking soda until dissolved and foaming; pour into well and whisk into the oil mixture. Whisk in the wine until all of the ingredients in the well are combined. Gradually stir in the surrounding flour until all is incorporated. Kneed the dough just until the dough is smooth, soft, and not sticky (don’t overhandle the dough). If sticky, gradually kneed in just enough of the remaining 1/4 cup flour until dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl and can be rolled out into a smooth rope shape.
 
2. Make Chocolate Dough: In a medium bowl, sift together 1 1/4 cups flour, the cocoa powder, and baking powder; make a well in center. To the well, add the olive oil and sugar and whisk to combine. Whisk in the cinnamon and zest. With orange juice in a cup, stir in the baking soda until dissolved and foaming; pour into well and whisk into the oil mixture. Whisk in the wine until all of the ingredients in the well are combined. Gradually stir in the surrounding flour until all is incorporated. Kneed the dough just until the dough is smooth, soft, and not sticky (don’t overhandle the dough). If sticky, gradually kneed in just enough of the remaining 1/4 cup flour until dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl and can be rolled out into a smooth rope shape.
 
2. Cover each bowl of dough with a clean dry kitchen towel and let rest 20 minutes. (Can be made ahead. After resting, separately wrap each dough tightly in plastic wrap and seal in a resealable plastic storage bag, pressing out air, and refrigerate up to 2 weeks. Let stand at room temperature until softened enough to roll before continuing with recipe, 30 minutes to 1 hour.)
 
3. Line 2 large heavy-duty rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or lightly grease the sheets with vegetable shortening. Arrange 2 racks in lower and upper thirds of oven. Heat oven to 350°F.
 
4. Briefly kneed dough before shaping. (If dough becomes oily at any time while making the cookies, kneed until oil is absorbed, then continue rolling out cookies.) Roll out about 1 tablespoon of each dough color into 3- to 4-inch ropes, place side by side and twist, tucking ends under, for a two-tone cookie.
 
5. Place cookies 1-inch apart on prepared baking sheet. Bake about 20 minutes, switching baking sheets up and down halfway through, until cookies are browned. Transfer to wire racks and cool completely. To give them a shine, while still warm, very lightly coat the tops with olive oil, then let cool completely. Store cookies in an airtight container at room temperature up to 3 weeks.
 
Recipes by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style  

 
More about Greek Orthodox Lenten cuisine can be found in our blog, Lenten Cuisine~A Faith Inspired Journey.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s Lenten cookies. Recipes for other Lenten foods can be found in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks. Stay tuned for future blogs on foods and customs relating to this Holy season of fasting and spiritual awakening.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.
 
Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!
 
Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!
 
Kelly
 
Resources
Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of America
Great Lent


Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    
 
Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos​
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​Lent Me Some Loukoumades

3/30/2020

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As our Lenten journey continues, we’re adding dessert to our menu. One of our absolute favorites, these fried Greek puffs—crisp on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside—are drizzled with honey, sprinkled with sesame or nuts, and dusted with cinnamon and confectioners’ sugar.

Loukoumades look like zeppoles but have a completely different consistency, resembling that of ​doughnuts. The following Loukoumades recipe has been adapted to make it appropriate for Lent, as well as other fasting days throughout the year. Get ready to add a sweet finish to your meal!

Lenten Loukoumades (λουκουμάδες νηστίσιμες)

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The key to making these puffs tender and airy on the inside is allowing the dough to rise in a warm, draft-free place. They should be fried in small batches so they don’t stick to each other, as well to keep the oil temperature constant—crowding them will lower the temperature and a lower temperature means the puffs will absorb more oil, making them greasy, not crispy.
 
PREP TIME: 2 hours 15 minutes (plus about 2 hours rising time)
COOKING TIME: 15 to 20 minutes
MAKES: about 40 loukoumades
 
2 cups lukewarm water (about 100°F), divided
1 envelope (1/4 oz) active dry yeast
2 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon Greek brandy (or 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract)
*
Canola or vegetable oil, for frying
Honey, for drizzling
Toasted sesame seeds, sliced almonds, or walnuts, for topping
Cinnamon and confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
 
1. In a medium bowl, stir together 1/2 cup lukewarm water and the yeast. Let stand 5 minutes, then stir until dissolved.
 
2. Meanwhile, in a large mixer bowl, combine the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, granulated sugar, salt, and baking soda. Stir in the remaining 1 1/2 cups lukewarm water, the yeast mixture and brandy until all of the flour is incorporated. Beat on medium speed until batter is smooth and free of any lumps. Remove from mixer, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and a dry kitchen towel, and place in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in volume, about 2 hours. (If you don’t have a warm spot in your home, heat the oven to 80°F. Turn OFF the oven, make sure the rack is not hot to the touch, and place the bowl in the oven to rise.)
 
3. Fill a deep saucepan with enough oil to reach 4 inches up the sides. Heat over medium-high heat until oil is hot but not smoking (350°F on a deep-fry thermometer). Adjust the heat as needed to keep the oil temperature constant. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels; set aside.
 
4. Carefully drop 1 rounded teaspoon of batter (using another teaspoon to slide the batter off) into the oil for each puff (if the puff doesn’t sizzle, the oil isn’t hot enough). Add 4 or 5 more spoonfuls of batter, as space allows so they’re not crowded, to the oil. Using a slotted spoon, turn the puffs and fry until golden brown on all sides. Transfer, in a single layer, to prepared baking sheet to drain. When done, transfer the puffs to a swerving platter, drizzle with honey, sprinkle with sesame or nuts, and dust with cinnamon and confectioners’ sugar. Serve immediately.
 
Recipe by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style  

 
More about Greek Orthodox Lenten cuisine can be found in our blog, Lenten Cuisine~A Faith Inspired Journey.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s Lenten dessert. Recipes for other Lenten foods can be found in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks. Stay tuned for future blogs on foods and customs relating to this Holy season of fasting and spiritual awakening.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.
 
Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!
 
Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!
 
Kelly
 
Resources
Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of America
Great Lent


​Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    
 
Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Lagana: Bread for the Spirit

3/23/2020

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​As our Lenten journey continues, we give you Lagana (λαγάνα), a flat bread eaten on Clean Monday and throughout Lent. In Greece, you’ll find this bread in various forms at bakeries year round, showcasing the county’s love of sesame seeds. With it’s myriad of dimples, Lagana has a distinct resemblance to Italian focaccia but of a different consistency altogether.

Lagana (λαγάνα)

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This simple and delicious recipe is a wonderful accompaniment to olives, halva, and an assortment of Lenten spreads and dips (recipes in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks), like Taramosalata, Hummus, Skordalia, and Olive Spread. If avoiding olive oil for Lent, substitute with grapeseed or other vegetable oil.
 
PREP TIME: 30 minutes (plus about 2 hours rising time and 10 minutes cooling time)
BAKING TIME: 30 to 40 minutes
MAKES: 1 bread, 4 to 6 servings
 
1 to 1½ cups warm water (about 100°F), divided
1 envelope (¼ oz) active dry yeast
2¼ cups bread flour, plus more for kneading
½ cup whole-wheat flour
½ teaspoon sea salt
½ teaspoon dried thyme (optional)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil (or grapeseed or other vegetable oil), plus more for coating
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, white or a mixture of black and white
 
1. In a medium bowl, stir together ½ cup warm water and the yeast until dissolved. Let stand 5 minutes.
 
2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the flours, salt, and thyme (if using). Using a wooden spoon, stir in the yeast mixture and oil. Gradually kneed in just enough of the remaining warm water to form a soft dough. Turn dough out onto a floured surface and kneed about 5 minutes, until dough is soft and elastic. Form into a ball.
 
3. Coat a large bowl with oil and place dough ball in bowl, turning once to coat the top.  Cover bowl with plastic wrap and a towel and let rise in a warm draft-free place until doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
 
4. Grease a large rimmed baking sheet; set aside. On a floured surface, knead dough about 5 minutes, then gently stretch out to form an oval or rectangle, about 1 inch thick. If the dough resists stretching, let stand about 30 seconds, then stretch again. Transfer to prepared baking sheet, reshape, and firmly press fingertips all over into dough to create indentations or dimples. Lightly brush dough with oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm draft-free place until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.
 
5. Meanwhile, heat oven to 375°F. Uncover bread and bake 30 to 40 minutes, until golden brown. Cool on a wire rack at least 10 minutes before cutting. Serve warm or at room temperature. (Can be made ahead. Cool completely. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap, place in a resealable heavy-duty plastic storage bag and freeze up to 1 month.)
 
Recipe by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style  

 
More about Greek Orthodox Lenten cuisine can be found in our blog, Lenten Cuisine~A Faith Inspired Journey.

I hope you enjoy making this week’s bread for the spirit. Recipes for hummus (four varieties) and other Lenten spreads, dips, and foods can be found in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks. Stay tuned for future blogs on foods and customs relating to this Holy season of fasting and spiritual awakening.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.
 
Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!
 
Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!
 
Kelly
 
Resources
Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of America
Great Lent


​Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!    
 
Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Lenten Chick…Pea Inspiration

3/9/2020

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As our Lenten journey continues, we turn away from chicken and instead look to the versatile chickpea to provide plant-based nourishment with a variety of recipe options. Chickpeas are nutrient treasure troves abundant in fiber, polyunsaturated fatty acids, vitamins A, E, and C, folate, magnesium, potassium, iron, carotenoids, and protein. All that and deliciousness wrapped up in these hearty legumes! You can simply add them to green salads, wraps, or soups, or take a little time to make hummus or our quick-and-easy salad (below).

Greek Island Chickpea Salad – Revithosalata (ρεβιθοσαλάτα)

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This salad goes all out with fresh ingredients that elevate the flavor profile of chickpeas to a whole new level. Included are optional additions to help you to customize this into your own creation, and tossing in shellfish (or chicken, if not fasting) will turn this salad into a substantial main-course meal, serving six. If adding shellfish (or chicken), make 1 1/2 recipes of the dressing (or more, to taste). Our recipe will also work with other legumes (if using dried, make sure to soak and cook before adding to the salad).
 
TOTAL TIME: 15 minutes plus chilling
MAKES: 4 servings
 
DRESSING
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
 
SALAD
1 (15 oz) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 small seedless cucumber, peeled and cut into a 1/2-inch dice
1 small red bell pepper, cut into a 1/2-inch dice
1 plum tomato, cut into a 1/2-inch dice
1 celery rib, cut into a 1/2-inch dice
1/4 cup diced red onion
1 scallion, sliced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
*
Crusty bread or pita, for serving
*
Optional additions:
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup pitted kalamata olives, halved or sliced
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
1 cup sautéed shrimp (or other shellfish)
1 cup diced cooked chicken (if not fasting)
 
1. Make dressing: In a bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Set aside.
 
2. Make salad: In a large serving bowl, gently toss together all of the salad ingredients. Pour the dressing over the top and gently toss to combine well. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours before serving. Serve with bread to soak up all the savory juices.
 
Recipe by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style  
 
More about Greek Orthodox Lenten cuisine can be found in our blog, Lenten Cuisine~A Faith Inspired Journey.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s chick…pea inspiration. Recipes for hummus (four varieties) and other Lenten foods can be found in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks. Stay tuned for future blogs on foods and customs relating to this Holy season of fasting and spiritual awakening.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.
 
Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!
 
Until then~
Kali orexi! Good appetite!
 
Kelly
 
Resources
Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of America
Great Lent


​Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!
 
Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
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Lenten Cuisine~A Faith-Inspired Journey

3/2/2020

6 Comments

 

The Discipline 

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The discipline of fasting during Great Lent and other religious occasions is to bring about cleansing and spiritual awareness in preparation for the Resurrection at Pascha (Easter). 

In times of fasting, the Greek Orthodox abstain from foods that come from animals containing blood, which include beef, poultry, eggs, dairy, and most seafood, shellfish being the exception because it contains no blood. During the strictest fasts, olive oil and wine are also abstained from. Traditional Lenten foods, as well as our own recipes we developed for fasting, are plentiful and delicious, and some might say that you’re not giving up anything if you’re enjoying your meal. The thing is, when you’re preparing these foods, you’re taking extra care to make suitable substitutions for the foods you can’t eat, which reminds you of why you’re doing it. In turn, you become spiritually aware and the fast is “serving” its purpose.

A Lenten Menu

Clean Monday, or Kathara Deftera (Καθαρά Δευτέρα), marks the launch of Great Lent for the Greek Orthodox and the entry of a unique collection of appropriate meals. A cross-section of Lenten foods that have become staples in our diet during this period include the following.

Taramosalata (ταραμοσαλάτα): A coral-colored, mousse-like dip containing red carp (fish) roe. (Recipe in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks.) For more on this dip and its many uses, check out our blog Taramosalata~Beyond Meze.

Revithosalata (ρεβιθοσαλάτα): A chickpea salad with red onion, cucumber, tomato, and fresh herbs.

Fakes Soupa (φακές σούπα): A protein-packed lentil soup that gets its Greek twist from vinegar.

Lagana (λαγάνα): A flat bread that gets its “dimples” from fingertips pressed into the surface.

Horta Vrasta (χόρτα βραστά): A boiled variety of leafy greens. A dressing of lemon juice and olive oil give this side dish flavor and enhance its nutritional value.

Dolmadakia Gialanzi (ντολμαδάκια γιαλαντζί): Grape leaves filled with rice and flavored with lemon. (Recipe in our Meze cookbook.)

Gigantes Plaki (γίγαντες πλακί): Giant beans in a tomato-based sauce.

Htapodi Sharas (χταπόδι-σχάρας): Grilled octopus.

Garides sti Shara me Lemoni (γαρίδες στη σχάρα με λεμόνι): Grilled shrimp with lemon.

Loukoumades (λουκουμάδες): Light and fluffy puffs drizzled with honey.

Koulourakia made with wine (κουλουράκια με κρασί): Perfect for dunking when you want something subtly sweet.

Halva with oil (χαλβά με λάδι): A Lenten favorite, this homemade version of halva is made with semolina or farina and butter, but when fasting, the butter is replaced with canola oil. Once cooled in a form, the halva is unmolded and dusted with ground cinnamon, then cut into slices.

Halva/Halvah with tahini (χαλβά με ταχίνι): Very different from the homemade version, this store-bought halva, popular throughout the Mediterranean and Middle East, is made with tahini (sesame paste) and comes in blocks with varietal options that include plain, with nuts (pistachios or almonds) or raisins, marbled with chocolate, and marbled with chocolate that’s coated completely in dark chocolate (my favorite!).

The photos in this slideshow demonstrate our Lenten menu on any given day of our 40-day fast. This is the kind of “fast” food that fuels our bodies and souls.

I hope you enjoyed our Lenten tasting. Recipes for these foods and more will be featured in our upcoming cookbooks (those noted above can be found in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks)! Stay tuned for future blogs on foods and customs relating to this Holy season of fasting and spiritual awakening. 

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi!  Good appetite!

Kelly
Kukla's Kouzina blogs on the Greek foods and faithful customs of Lent, Holy Week, and Pascha:
Greek Cheesefare Week
Fasting & Feasting…Greek Foods for Body & Soul
Lenten Kouzina Made Easy
Greek Holy Week & Pascha~Easter Foods
Greek Foods of Lent
​
Source
Greek Orthodox Archdiocese of America

Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!

Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
6 Comments

Greek Cheese~Delectable Varieties & Uses

3/4/2019

13 Comments

 

Celebrate Cheesefare Week

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The countdown to Great Lent in the Greek Orthodox Church comes in the form of three preparatory weeks. First is a fast-free week, followed by a standard-fasting week (no meat products on Wednesday and Friday), and lastly a no-meat week where cheese and eggs are allowed every day. This last week is called Cheesefare Week, which begins immediately after Meatfare Sunday, the final day of the second preparation week. Cheesefare Sunday marks the end of Cheesefare Week, after which, in addition to meat, you abstain from diary and eggs for Great Lent.

In Greece, these three pre-Lent weeks have evolved from the ancient Karnavali (καρναβάλι), pronounced kahr-nah-VAH-lee, or carnival, into a period called Apokries (Απόκριες), pronounced ah-POH-kree-ehs, meaning a gradual pulling “away from meat.” This is a Greek Mardi Gras of sorts—a masquerade filled with fun, laughter, and indulgence in food.

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During Cheesefare Week, the custom is to eat dairy foods like milk, yogurt, and of course cheese! Because this is the period right before Great Lent, it’s the time to consume all perishable dairy products in your refrigerator before going into the 40-plus-day phase of fasting. In turn, this week is known for its cornucopia of scrumptious and rich cheese-based foods that were developed just for this occasion, like Tyropita (cheese-filled phyllo pie), Poungia Karpathika Apokriatia (Carnival spiced cheese crescents with honey from Karpathos), and Loukoumadakia me Myzithra (cheese puffs drizzled with honey). 
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Tyropita
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Poungia Karpathika Apokriatia
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Loukoumadakia me Myzithra
In honor of this week’s food theme, we’re going to talk about Greek cheeses that make Cheesefare Week and every week (non-fasting of course) delicious!

Cut the [Greek] Cheese!

Cut it…grate it…shred it…crumble it…cube it…fry it…grill it…bake it…and EAT it! 
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Sliced
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Crumbled
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Cubed
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Fried (saganaki)
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Grilled
As an appetizer, on a salad, in a savory pie/pita (like spanakopita), over pasta, or in a dessert—when it comes to cheese, or as we say, tyrí (τυρί–pronounced tee-REE), variety is the spice of [Greek] life!

And in that life, man cannot live on feta alone—not when there’s an abundance of Greek cheeses to explore and enjoy! You’ll also need some olives and crusty bread to complete the experience. Before I go off on a tangent (which is really not hard to do when it comes to food) lets get back to cheese. Aside from feta, there’s a wealth of Greek cheeses that are not that well known in the non-Greek community.

In Karpathos, as on many of the Greek islands, fresh and aged cheeses are uniquely made in the homes of each village using sheep’s and/or goat’s milk so the varieties are seemingly endless. The animals are grass fed and graze freely, producing milk of the highest quality. Most of these cheeses are not exported so if you want to sample the tyrí Yiayiá makes, you have to take a trip to her kouzina. The good news is that there are many commercially-produced cheeses that are exported and are becoming more available in specialty markets, gourmet shops, Greek/Mediterranean stores and supermarkets throughout the United States. A few of them can also be ordered online!

This week the Greek cheese plate is on Kukla’s Kouzina’s table with details about each variety featured in our cookbooks, including how they can be used, along with acceptable substitutions (if available). A list of places where you can purchase these cheeses follows.

FETA (φέτα) pronounced FEH-tah
(sheep’s and/or goat’s milk, aged and kept in a salty whey brine for at least two months)
Soft-creamy to semi-firm, flavor ranges from moderately salty to salty-peppery-sharp

Everyone knows about feta and most people love it but not many realize that feta comes in as many varieties as there are towns in Greece, and most of these varieties are named for the region they come from. Most fetas are made from sheep’s milk and have a creamy-smooth texture. Some are made with goat’s milk, which gives them a tangy quality—you’ll even find little wheels of goat feta that are scored from being ripened in small baskets (kalathaki). A few are made with both sheep’s and goat’s milk, combining the qualities of both. If a cheese is labeled as feta but is made with cow’s milk (domestic) it is NOT real feta—it has none of the rich flavor of traditional feta and you should not waste your money! 
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Sheep
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Goat
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No cow
Always read the label and look for sheep’s milk, goat’s milk or a combo of the two. Most specialty markets will let you have a taste to help you choose.    
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Titan Foods, Astoria, NY, Arahova feta
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Titan Foods, Astoria, NY-- over 10 different fetas to choose from!
These are a few of our favorites:

·Arahova pronounced a-RA-hova (sheep’s milk): semi-firm, sharp, a bit salty, peppery. Great for crumbling in a salad, serving sliced with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and kalamata olives, baking in a pita, and frying (as in saganaki, where feta is sautéed in olive oil, flamed with brandy and sprinkled with lemon juice).

·Bulgarian (sheep’s and/or goat’s milk): semi-firm, tangy, salty. Great in a salad, serving sliced, for baking, and frying.

·Dodoni pronounced tho-THO-nee (sheep’s milk): firm, salty. Great in a salad, serving sliced, for baking, and frying.

·French (sheep’s milk): soft to semi-firm, creamy, mildest of the feta family. This feta is perfect for serving fresh in salads, crumbled in an omelet, or sliced on an appetizer (meze) plate.
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Feta drizzled with olive oil and fresh oregano
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Feta-olive shots
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Feta saganaki
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Feta-salad skewers
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HALLOUMI (χαλούμι) pronounced hah-LOO-mee
(sheep’s milk)
Firm, mild, moderately salty

This white cheese comes from Cyprus and has an almost rubbery quality that cuts into perfect slices for frying in saganaki, grilling, or dicing for a salad.

Try this: Cut into 1-inch cubes, brush with olive oil and grill just until grill marks appear. Cool slightly, then skewer with watermelon pieces and mint or basil leaves for a refreshing appetizer.

Note: This is the only cheese that can be frozen without harming its texture or flavor.

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KASSERI (κασέρι) pronounced kah-SEH-ree
(sheep’s milk alone or combined with goat’s milk, made in the regions of Thessalia and Xanthi, and the island of Mitilini, aged over three months)
Semi-firm, yellow, mild, creamy, salty-sweet, nutty

Wonderful as a sliced table cheese, or shredded/diced and tossed with hot pasta. You’ll always find at least two cheeses on a Greek table, feta and kasseri. Kasseri is also the cheese used in Greece to make pizza (but no tomato sauce!).

Substitution: manchego


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KEFALOTYRI (κεφαλοτύρι) pronounced keh-fah-loh-TEE-ree
(sheep’s milk alone, or combined with goat’s milk, aged at least three months)
Hard, sharp, salty, tangy, strong aroma, light yellow

Perfect for grating over pasta or vegetables, in savory pies, or garnishing cooked dishes.

Substitution: a 50-50 mix of high-quality Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano-Reggiano


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GRAVIERA (γραβιέρα) pronounced ghrah-VYEH-raH
(sheep’s milk, sometimes combined with a small amount of goat’s milk, aged at least five months)
Semi-hard, firm, sweet, fruity, nutty, mellow, intense aroma

The highest quality Graviera comes from Crete and is served sliced, alone or with appetizers (meze).

Substitution: manchego

KEFALOGRAVIERA (κεφαλογραβιέρα) pronounced keh-fah-loh-ghrah-VYEH-rah
(sheep’s milk, sometimes combined with goat’s milk, made in western Greece, aged at least three months)
Hard, salty, nutty

As the name suggests, this cheese is a marriage between Kefalotyri and Graviera and merges the qualities of both to form a cheese ideal for grating over dishes, using in savory pies or making saganaki.
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Kefalograviera
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Kefalograviera saganaki
Substitution: high-quality Parmigiano-Reggiano

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MANOURI (μανούρι) pronounced mah-NOO-ree
(sheep’s milk alone, or combined with goat’s milk, made in central and western Thessalia)
Semi-soft, sweet, buttery, dense

Similar to feta but creamier and less salty or unsalted, this fresh white cheese is made from the drained whey from feta production. This melt-in-your-mouth cheese can be mixed with herbs and spread on crackers or bread. It can also be served as a dessert drizzled with honey—a favorite in Greece.

Substitution: goat cheese (chèvre) 


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MYZITHRA (μυζήθρα) pronounced mee-ZEE-thrah
(sheep’s and/or goat’s milk)
Fresh, unsalted, mild flavor, strong aroma, generally sold in round balls or loose by weight.

A whey cheese made from feta and Kefalotyri by-products, it makes a delicious topper for pastas, pizzas, stews, soups and salads. It’s also used as a filling in pastries and desserts.

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Substitutions: full-fat sheep’s-milk ricotta. 
If using cow’s-milk ricotta (full fat only), 
drain well in a cheesecloth and add a little cream.

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DRY MYZITHRA (μυζήθρα ξερή) pronounced mee-ZEE-thrah kseh-REE
(sheep’s and/or goat’s milk)
Air-dried Myzythra, hard, heavily salted

Perfect for grating over pasta and vegetables. In Glifatha in Athens, restaurants sprinkle it over French fries for an unbelievable side dish.

Substitutions: dry-aged ricotta salata (pressed, salted and dried ricotta), Pecorino Romano 



Got Cheese?
If you’re in the New York City area, you can find these Greek cheeses (and more) at the following markets:

Titan Foods
25-56 31st Street
Astoria, NY, 11102
718-626-7771

Mediterranean Foods (2 locations)
30-12 34th Street
Astoria, NY 11103
718-728-6166

22-78 35th Street
Astoria, NY 11105
718-721-0266

New Bakaliko
115 Broadway (RT 107)
Hicksville, NY 11801
516-932-8988

If you don’t live near these markets but have a Greek Orthodox church nearby, chances are they know of a Greek/Mediterranean shop in the area.

Online shopping is also an option. Here’s where you can find Greek cheese, as well as other foods and items:

igourmet.com
amazon.com
Costco - select locations (Dodoni feta) and from Instacart

I hope you enjoyed our celebration of Cheesefare Week. These cheeses are featured in recipes in our Meze and Spreads & Dips cookbooks, available on Amazon. Next week we enter Great Lent so join us then for more Greek foods and customs as they relate to this period of fasting and prayer.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday.

Until then~
Kali orexi!  Good appetite!

Kelly

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Kukla's Kouzina blogs on the Greek foods and faithful customs of Lent, Holy Week, and Pascha:
Fasting & Feasting~Greek Foods for Body & Soul
Lenten Cuisine~A Faith-Inspired Journey
Lenten Kouzina Made Easy
Greek Holy Week & Pascha~Easter Foods
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    This Greek cooking blog is a companion to our  cookbook series 
    KUKLA’S KOUZINA: 
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       This exquisite olive oil produced by Mentis Estate is hand picked and carefully pressed by local artisans, creating a pure unblended oil that is aromatic and fruity with an acidity of less than 0.5%. 
       Mentis Estate is truly the finest olive oil we at Kukla's Kouzina have ever tasted and it's our first choice for serving with crusty bread, drizzling on salads, and finishing a dish. 

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