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Greek Cooking with a Karpathos Island Twist

7/5/2021

33 Comments

 

Karpathos~A Food Lover’s Paradise

PictureOlympos woman stuffing zucchini flowers
Our Karpathos getaway travels into the island’s kitchens this week for a look at the unique style of cooking that makes Kukla’s Kouzina tick!

Step into our kouzina and learn about what makes our cuisine so different from the other corners of Greece, and what makes it so irresistible. 

Last week you got to see the beauty of Karpathos, this week you get to taste it!  

Kalos orisate!  (kah-LOHS oh-REE-sah-teh) Welcome!

Mythological Proportions

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Karpathian cuisine is as awe-inspiring as the Titans, the elder gods who made Karpathos their home. The island's history dates as far back as 2500 B.C. and its occupation by numerous peoples and their cultures is reflected in its cuisine. This history tells the story of pieces of a puzzle that, over centuries, came together to form what is now known as Karpathian cuisine.

This cuisine's diversity is an effect of not only climate and location, but also of occupation by various civilizations recurring throughout time as a result of wars and invasions.  

Records show that Karpathos was inhabited by numerous outside cultures which began in Neolithic times with the Minoans, who introduced a variety of foods from the sea, as well as savory olives and their complex flavorful oils, herbs such as oregano, and thyme-scented honey. 

The Minoans were followed by the Mycenaeans, whose culture was rich in farm-fresh, as well as dried, fruits and vegetables, sheep and goat dairy products, game meats, chicken, celery, cardamom, mint, and fennel. Then the Phoenicians transported wine to the island’s shores. The Dorians came next with their Spartan diet of olive oil, garlic, pomegranates, figs, whole grains, apples, grapes, flax seeds, lentils, and a number of other high-nutrient staples we now refer to as superfoods. The Romans arrived with barley, millet, wheat, and cheese, all of which were infused with honey in certain recipes. The Venetians instituted pasta into the Karpathian diet, which led to the creation of pastitsio. And the language of the Ottomans inspired recipe names such as moussaka, tzatziki, giouvarlakia, keftedes, and mboureki. There was even a Genovese basil-loving pirate, Moresco, who ruled over the island! Aromas of citrus, allspice, cinnamon, and crystallized vanilla dominate Karpathian cooking, and it is unknown whether they sprouted here and were taught to others or vice versa. Tomatoes became incorporated into Greek cuisine in the late nineteenth century and were widely used in Dodecanese cooking during the Italian occupation from 1911 to 1947, and still are today. This is just one element exclusive to the nature of cooking in this area. 

The Italian occupation resulted in a marriage between the two styles of cooking, and this melding is well represented in the meals you’ll encounter on this island, like pasta with meat sauce or makarounes. Some restaurants feature both cuisines and you’ll see items like shrimp parmigiana and pizza on the menu alongside moussaka and souvlaki. 
   
These influences, combined with the island’s faithful native roots, have made Karpathos incomparable in its novel style and preparation of food, creating a culinary icon that lives only on this distinct island and is enhanced in the pages of our cookbook.

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cooking a goat in an outdoor kettle, Karpathos
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baking bread in an outdoor stone oven, Olympos

Keeping up with the Karpathians

To become truly familiar with a culture one must live with its natives, breathe the same air, and of course, sample its foods. Foods reveal a story of the people who create them—cultures of the sea have diets abundant in fish, those inland take from the earth, and their use of spices reflects the passion they happily share. On Karpathos, all these elements combine to tell the tale of a civilization with a generous lifestyle that makes every day a celebration.

The recipes born here reflect their heritage and maintain an originality that sets them apart from standard Greek cuisine. Foods also vary by location on the island, as some are extracted from the unspoiled mountain village of Olympos that remains frozen in time, others from the inland farming town of Volada. Then there's the picturesque, age-old fishing port of Finiki that can’t be beat when it comes to seafood. 

Eating on this island is truly a slice of heaven of which the myths only hint!
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fishing boat, Finiki
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fresh catch, Finiki
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A Dish by any Other Name

The differences between Karpathian cooking and mainstream Greek cuisine are apparent in a number of dishes that share a common name but actually have their own distinct food personalities. The following examples are proof positive that a rose, or dish, by any other name is just as sweet…or savory.    

Spanakopites Karpathikes  (Karpathian spinach pies)

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Savory spanakopites Karpathikes do not mimic the well-known spanakopita but exhibit their own distinctive, undeniable charm. Spice-scented homemade dough half-moons are filled with a spinach, rice, and onion mixture that is lightly flavored with lemon juice and herbs (no cheese in these, and you won’t miss it!). These individual pies are baked until risen, golden and seriously aromatic. 

On the island, especially in Olympos, baking is done in stone or brick communal ovens outside of the home. The food not only tastes better but it keeps the house cool…seriously important when it’s warm-to-hot most of the year. A classic case of If you can't stand the heat, take it out of the kitchen!

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communal outdoor brick oven, Olympos

Makarounes  (pronounced mah-ka-ROO-nes)

In the world of everyday pasta dishes, most people think of a tomato-based sauce. In Karpathos, pasta takes on a whole new meaning. Makarounes, an island specialty, is a peasant dish whose star ingredient is a homemade, finger-rolled, shell-shaped pasta (similar to cavatelli). The makarounes are cooked, then tossed with onion and garlic that were sautéed in olive oil, and topped with grated hard myzithra cheese (sheep and/or goat’s milk). Although this sounds too simple to fall into the realm of Greek cuisine, one forkful will prove that you don’t need a dozen ingredients and hours slaving over a hot stove to make a delicious Karpathian dish. Quick, easy, and entirely satisfying!
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makarounes, first scored with the tines of a fork, then rolled with fingertips.
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cooked makarounes tossed with sautéed onion and garlic, then topped with grated myzithra

Arnaki Kleftiko  (slow-baked spring lamb, pronounced ahr-NAH-kee KLEF-tee-koh)

In Greek, kleftiko means stolen. In Karpathian history, thieves (kleftes) lived hidden in the mountains and would steal a lamb or goat, then they'd slow-cook the meat (up to 24 hours) in the ground in a sealed pit so there would be no smell, no visible smoke, and no sign of a stolen animal. The meat was so tender and delicious that the recipe was passed down through the generations and was named after the thieves. In Karpathos, kleftiko is still made the old-fashioned way (isn’t that usually the best?), on the bone, marinated in garlic and lemon juice, and slow-baked in a pit-oven. Sometimes it's wrapped in parchment and baked in a clay pot.
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Left: arnaki kleftiko baked in a pit (the meat is so tender it falls off the bone). Right: kleftiko wrapped in parchment and baked in a clay pot.
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Mbaklavas Karpathikos  (Karpathian baklava)

Unlike mainland baklava, mbaklavas Karpathikos is made with an olive oil-based pastry dough that is rolled into a spiral of thin layers, then sliced, and deep fried. Once drained and cooled, the diamond-shaped, flaky slices are drenched in a fragrant, spiced honey syrup and sprinkled with walnuts. Made for special celebrations, these extraordinary treats are piled high on trays, wrapped in colorful cellophane and tied with elaborate bows. When dining on the island, you can find these at just about every restaurant and it’s the first thing on the menu at bakeries.
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Karpathian baklava
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traditional baklava
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kouloures
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psilokouloura
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sweet kouloures
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Olympos woman rolling out the dough for spanakopites
Other must-try indigenous foods you’ll find on the island include full-cream cheeses like salty almotyri (armotyri) and spiced meriari served with a variety of rustic bread loaves and kouloures (donut-shaped biscuits made with wheat, barley, or a combination of both), psilokouloura (thin, sesame-covered, olive-oil breadsticks), kouloumbotes olives, ofto (baked lamb or goat stuffed with rice), skaros yahni (baked fish) or “Karpathian fish” as the locals call it because the skaros fish can only be found in the Karpathian sea, kavroumas (strips of pig meat, similar to bacon, that are fried and served with bread), lahanopita (cabbage pie), drilla (a thick goat’s-milk sour cream), vyzanti (lamb stuffed with bulgur or rice and baked in a wood-burning oven), and hondros (meat prepared with bulgur). 

Pastries are also abundant and include xylikopites (pies made with creamed cheese, honey and sugar), sweet tourtes or sitakopita/myzithropita (mini pies or tray-sized pie prepared with locally-made sheep’s and/or goat’s-milk sitaka or myzithra cheeses), alevria cookies (the dough is kneaded in honey and butter), sisamomeli (a sesame-and-honey confection served at weddings), and poungia (Carnival spiced cheese crescents with honey).    


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Olympos baker stringing kouloures to dry after baking

Farm to Table ~ the Original Movement

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beekeeper
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Karpathian thyme honey
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fresh figs
Food in Karpathos is prepared using homegrown ingredients. It’s been that way for centuries because, as an isolated island, it’s difficult to get supplies from the mainland. There are also very few markets on the island so when ingredients are needed, the natives go to the source. 

Thyme honey comes from their bee farms and is extracted from their own honeycombs. Fruit and vegetables are grown organically. Cheese is made from the milk of their sheep and goats.  Bread is baked using their own grains that are ground in their gristmills powered by the wind.

If you’re eating in Karpathos, most of the ingredients are as local as local gets. This is the purest form of the farm-to-table movement, and it started here!
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basil
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wild artichoke
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zucchini flowers
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gristmill inside of windmill, Olympos
We hope you enjoyed our Karpathian kitchen raid. In next week's blog Tavernas & Restaurants of Karpathos, we'll take you into the best tavernas and restaurants in Karpathos where the foods we just talked about leap off the menus, and the hosts make you feel right at home! For our classic Karpathian recipe for Kritamo Toursi, check out Pickling~Greek Island Style.

Sign up for our e-newsletter (if you haven’t already) and stay connected on social media for cooking tips and recipes, as well as for all Kukla's Kouzina updates and news.

Thanks for following us and we’ll see you next Monday!

Until then~
Kali orexi!  Good appetite!

Kelly

Copyright © Kukla's Kouzina: A Gourmet Journey~Greek Island Style / The Naked Truth About...Greek Cooking!

Web design by Kelly Salonica Staikopoulos
33 Comments
Kris Wetherbee link
6/24/2013 11:34:02 pm

Thanks for yet another entertaining and informative piece!

Reply
Val
6/26/2013 02:58:05 pm

My Mom's side of the family is from Northern Italy and we make the Karpathian Baklava (we call them Bowties) at Christmastime! We also pinch the sides together at intervals to form rosettes, drizzle with honey and top with nuts, just like the photo. I think I'd like to live in Karpathos!

Reply
Kelly
6/29/2013 03:36:28 am

It looks like the Italian occupation had a hand in how the Karpathian baklava was made!

Reply
Ted
12/18/2014 02:07:30 pm

or could be that the Italians got something from the Karpathians?
Just teasing you. Both cultures are good and had an exchange of information for thousands of years.

Pam Smith
7/15/2013 03:17:38 am

Hi Kelly --- Reading all this wonderful material and seeing the fantastic pictures always makes me so hungry and I always wish I had all the ingredients to immediately make some of these great dishes! Can you come cook for me? :-)

Reply
Kelly link
7/15/2013 01:38:09 pm

Hi Pam- We're hoping to put together a culinary trip to Karpathos next year. Come cook with us!

Reply
Restaurant Point of Sale link
8/21/2013 05:08:54 pm

Greek Cooking with a Karpathos-Island Twist is the first time I've read such a good article, really very good,I hope there still can continue to read such a good article.Keep on posting.....

Reply
Kelly link
8/22/2013 01:27:12 am

We will and thanks so much for your lovely comments!
~Kelly

Reply
19th birthday ideas link
10/21/2013 09:35:23 pm

Whatever your mod is when you hear about any party then you got excited and wait for that special event or party. The Greek cookies are excellent in taste and people want it in bulk. The are perfectly meeting the criteria of different parties.

Reply
Wendy link
11/4/2013 06:33:26 pm

This looks so fabulous. The baklava is known in all countries of Balcan and you can find this delicious food there.

Reply
Werkblad link
6/10/2014 09:49:57 pm

Wonderful post. I appreciate your attention to this subject and I learned a good deal.

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
6/10/2014 11:59:08 pm

Thank you for your comments! We're so happy to hear you enjoyed this subject that is near and dear to our hearts. Kali oreksi!

Reply
SP
6/20/2016 06:16:12 am

Please please please just post the recipe to the Karpathian baklava!! The cookbook is taking too long and I can't wait

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
6/21/2016 07:48:00 am

This cookbook has over 150 recipes that have been translated, edited, are now being tested to make sure they work for our readers. This is what's taking a lot of time. Because of copyright issues, we can’t share any of our recipes before the book is published. The good news is that the first cookbook of this series will be published this year. The wait is almost over and we appreciate your patience and support!

Reply
Mary Liontakis link
6/25/2018 07:39:25 am

Can’t wait for your cookbook!I am from Kárpathos but still would love to buy for presents for my Philoptochos!They love all the goodies I make them

Effie
6/20/2016 08:54:14 am

Would love to participate in a cooking trip to Karpathos.

Reply
Kelly of Kukla's Kouzina link
6/21/2016 07:51:14 am

Hi Effie, we will be organizing a culinary trip to Karpathos as soon as the book is published. We're hoping for next summer and look forward to traveling with you!

Reply
Swati Parmar link
6/29/2016 10:12:03 am

Delicious recipe shared.Really loved it.

Reply
Kelly of Kukla's Kouzina link
6/29/2016 11:15:29 am

Glad to hear it Swati! Thanks so much!!

Reply
Sophia link
6/30/2016 09:15:04 am

Amazing blog posted.

Reply
Kelly of Kukla's Kouzina link
7/1/2016 03:19:01 pm

Thanks SO much Sophia! Really happy you enjoyed it!!

Reply
JOHN GALANAKIS
6/26/2017 07:29:18 am

I DID GO TO OLYMPOS AND MET KURIA ANNA AND WATCHED HER MAKING THE MAKAROUNES AND ATE A PLATE OF IT, THAT WAS GREAT, NOW I HAVE THE WHOLE FAMILY AS A FRIEND ON FACEBOOK. I TRIED MAKING MAKAROUNES BUT THEY DO NOT COME OUT LIKE ANNAS, THEY COME OUT TOO DOUGHIE . SO I BUY CAVATELI FROM THE STORE AND MAKE IT WITH THAT.

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
6/28/2017 09:14:36 am

Thanks for your comment, John! Kyria Anna was amazing and, yes, the people do become like family. The flour in the U.S. is different from that used in Karpathos. We found success with King Arthur flours, especially Italian-Style combined with whole-wheat for making pasta. Buying cavatelli is also a good option!

Reply
Nick @ GreekBoston.com link
6/25/2018 10:37:49 am

It's amazing how there are similarities to Greek cuisine no matter where in Greece you are. However, there are always a few memorable differences, as is the case with Karpathian Baklava. It's just as delicious, though!

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
6/26/2018 10:42:27 am

Nick, all of Greece's delicacies are delicious and the variety makes it so much fun to eat! Karpathian baklava is one of our favorites. Thanks for commenting!

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
6/26/2018 10:47:53 am

Mary Liontakis, we're a couple of weeks away from publishing our first cookbook! Can't wait to share it with you and your Philoptochos friends!!

Reply
Jana
1/2/2019 09:36:31 am

Found your blog googling makarounes as I finally got to making something out of a pack bought From lovely Karpathos a whole year ago. Your pictures immediately took me black there and made me dream of another vacation there. Just lovely! <3 Good luck with your cook book!

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
1/2/2019 07:18:04 pm

Hi Jana- Thanks so much for your comments and good wishes! I hope your makarounes fill you with the most wonderful memories of Karpathos. It sounds like it's time for you to return. Kali orexi!

Reply
Nick @ GreekBoston.com link
7/18/2019 09:17:38 am

Karpathos is a gorgeous island with a long history. It's definitely a place where people can eat delicious food, see the sites, and relax while getting away from it all!

Reply
Nick @ GreekBoston.com link
8/10/2020 08:55:54 am

Karpathos, like most of Greece, has a rich culinary tradition. There are also some key differences in the cuisine compared to the rest of Greece. Interesting how the food can be directly traced to the island's history.

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
8/14/2020 07:07:07 pm

Nick, that's the beauty of traveling through Greece. The cuisine changes from region to region or island to island, so there's always something new to discover and enjoy!

Reply
Angela Aslanidis kasapakis
12/29/2021 01:31:16 pm

Please let me know how I can obtain your book I would love I to get a copy!

Reply
Kelly from Kukla's Kouzina link
12/30/2021 03:51:22 pm

Hi Angela, I emailed the links to our books (on Amazon) to you but you can also find links at the top right side of this blog under "ABOUT," as well as on our Home page. Just click on the images of the books. Thanks so much for your interest!

Reply

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    Kontos Foods
    Sahadi's
    ​Mediterranean Foods

    Titan Foods
    'Anama Concept
    Recipiada
    Grubstreet
    Eater

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